Gavalas Winery, Santorini

Visited in Summer 2012.

The contrast beween this winery and Boutari was very interesting. Boutari is a large, modern winery with plenty of new winemaking technology. This is a small old-fashioned family producer. For example, the Vin Santo is still made by foot-treading in a concrete lagare (or whatever the correct Greek word for this is!) with the filtration being done by having the wine drip through a wicker basket!

Like an idiot, I didn't note down any of the vintages here. D'Oh!

1. Katsano (actually 85% Katsano and 15% Gaidouria)
This is a new grape variety for me. Apparently it accounts for around 1% of Santorini wine production. Since this is not Assyrtiko, this is officially a "regional wine of the cyclades" rather than from the Santorini appellation.

Pale lemon colour. Herbal and smoky nose (no oak). Smooth mouthfeel. Very acidic and refreshing. Light body. Well balanced. Mineral finish. This is very good, if unusual.

2. Santorini
Very pale colour. Nose is predominantly primary fruit - lots of lemon. Also some floral notes. Upon swirling the wine in the glass, the usual Santorini sea-salt smell comes through as well. Intense palate. Lots of lemony acidity. Strong minerality. Great length and powerful finish. An excellent unoaked example

3. Nikteri
This is not barrel-fermented, but is aged in oak for 6-months after fermentation. A half-way house between the usual Santorini style and the Barrel-Fermented style. I like it. Medium-pale gold colour. Nose has usual primary fruit, but also spice, nuts and vanilla. Also creamy notes from the oak. The palate is intense and the wine is surprisingly full bodied. This is somewhat rustic in character. High acid, but soft and creamy mouthfeel. Lots of power and well balanced. Very good.

4. Vin Santo
Dark toffee/treacle colour. Strong sweet aromas such as toffee, also plenty of complexity. Coffee, orange. The palate is a bit too sticky, a little raisiny. Some rancio character on the palate. Bitter chocolate. This does have high acid, but the sweetness still feels a little overdone. This is good, but only in very small doses.