Sunday 29 July 2012

A Taste of Greece

Vivat Bacchus, 23 July 2012

1. Domaine Gerovassiliou, Malagousia 2011 (Epanomi) Nice - crisp and clean. Mostly stainless steel, although 10% new oak (which I wouldn't have noticed without being told - subtly done). Stone fruit and crisp, refreshing acid.

2. Gaia, "Wild Ferment", Assyrtiko, 2011 (Santorini) I love Assyrtiko from Santorini and this is an excellent example so I very much enjoyed this. I also learnt some good trivia:
- Assyrtiko originally came from Assyria
- Santorini vineyards are some of the oldest in the world. They are phylloxera-free and the vines are not ripped up and replanted. Rather they just take cuttings and replant in the same vineyard.
- No real rain in the vineyards during the growing season. However, there is no irrigation either. All the water during the growing season comes from sea mists depositing moisture on the vines.

This wine had so much volcanic minerality it had a smoky character. An excellent expression of the volcanic terroir of the island. Full flavoured, complex, well balanced. Salty, umami aftertaste. This has seen oak, as well as barrels made from another type of wood (the details of which I now forget).

3. Estate Biblia Chora, "Ovilos" 2010 (Kavala) This was 50% Semillon, 50% Assyrtiko. The wine was aged on its lees so has a little of the yeasty, creamy mouthfeel (cheesy leesy) this can sometimes impart. Slight spice, full bodied, complex. Floral finish. Very elegant, but also powerful. Very good.

4. Gaia, "Notios" Agiorgitiko 2011 (Peloponnese) This wine is from Nemea. It's a light, fruity, juicy and refreshing wine. Not really my style of red wine, but a good example of the type, and actually quite a pleasant style to drink on such a warm day. This has an oak spice finish, but is not oaky in character. Mostly red fruit on the palate.

5. Domaine Gerovassiliou, "Avaton", 2006 (Epanomi) This is quite a rustic wine. More black fruit in character than the previous wine. Also something animal (maybe brett?) Herby, soft tannin. Interesting. This would be great if cheap - no idea of the retail cost.

6. Alpha Estate, Old Vine Xinomavro 2008 (Amyndeo) This has spent 1 year in French oak. Quite red fruit in character - sour cherries in particular. This is very juicy and surprisingly refreshing given that it has plenty of dusty tannin. Definitely a food wine. This, combined with the pale colour, makes me think of an Italian red, perhaps a cross between barolo and lagrein. Apparently, this region is "cool climate", which sounds a little unlikely in Greece.

7. Gaia Estate, Agiorgitiko 2006 (Nemea) This is far more serious than the previous Agiorgitiko - hard to imagine that they are the same producer from the same region and grape. Apparently, this comes from mountain vineyards and this is what gives rise to the difference. The fruit flavour is still more towards the red end of the spectrum. This is juicy but complex. Lots of pepper, wood, savoury spice.. High and dusty tannin. Complex and intense. It's well balanced now but would be improved by pairing with meat or by age (very youthful now despite having 6 years). This will age well - excellent and delicious stuff!