These three wines were tasted (amongst many others!) with Ed and Jordi at a recent post-WSET session.
2000 Grande Cuvee, Domaine de l'Hortus
Domaine de l'Hortus is one of the foremost producers in the Pic St Loup region. This used to be part of the Languedoc region but is now its own appellation.
This was quite pale colour, but full of ripe and rich flavours. Very noticeable herbal nature, which makes sense given that this is total garrigue region. Something meaty too. An aromatic shiraz & grenache blend. This is awesome - it's great now and, despite the pale colour, still has time ahead of it.
2003 Devon Crest, Meinert, Devon Valley, South Africa
This was recommended to me when the wine I ordered in VB London Bridge was not available. It was excellent. I've had this wine from a different, younger vintage before and it was good, but not so amazing that I made a note of it. This time, however, the wine is at peak age so was really striking. So much so that I bought a bottle to this occasion.
Pale colour, lightish body, dusty tannin. This is sour and juicy and refreshing on the palate, but also has plenty of interesting development character. Lots of tobacco and cedar and cigar. Meaty and leathery. An oxidative and slightly austere character. Definitely not one to keep - at its peak now. This was very good.
2010 Sainsbury's Cotes du Rhone
This is made by Chapoutier.
Intense and full bodied. High tannins, high acid. This was seriously intense - almost like an amarone. I definitely didn't guess what we were drinking. For less than £10 a bottle this is a serious bargain.
Wednesday 19 December 2012
Boekenhoutskloof Tasting
Vivat Bacchus
26 November 2012
1. Semillon 2009
This is old-vine semillon (some vines dating back to the 40s). Smoky and waxy nose. High acid, round and mouthfilling. This has a slight banana aftertaste, but not in the typical rubber/banana SA cliche way, but in a ripe fruit kind of way. This is delicious, long and will age well.
2. Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
This has a noticeable oxidative character. Partly from the bottle age, also presumably from the 27 months in new oak that the Cab Sauv gets. A rich nose: wood, spice and nuts overlaying the black fruit foundation. Some cigar box too. This is developing complexity but still has a juicy, refreshing and smooth feel on the palate so presumably has scope to improve even further. Very good stuff.
3. Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
This has a more austere nose than the 2001. Again, it has the oxidative character. More medium-bodied and thinner feel on the tongue. Still lots of fruit-flavour intensity. Tannins felt more prominent. Good length. Not the best of the wines tonight, but in a typical line-up would still be very impressive.
4. Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Noticeable oak, smoky, dark fruits. So smooth and ripe on the palate. Juicy and refreshing finish. Lots of power. High tannin, but not dominant (only really stands out when the wine is swirled round the front of the gums). Ridiculous length. This is very nice now, but should be seriously excellent in a few years.
5. Syrah 2004
Unlike the Cab Sauv, the Syrah apparently sees no new oak. Ripe black fruit and pepper on the nose. Definitely some oxidative character. Slight rancio aromas - cooked meat, savoury finish. Great length. Oh, how I wish I'd loaded up on this when I was a student and it was cheap.
6. Syrah 2006
Sour and juicy character. Like the 2006 Cab Sauv, this is a more austere wine - apparently a more difficult vintage.
7. Syrah 2009
So fruity and powerful. Ripe black fruit and pepper. Serious ripeness evident on the palate too. Seriously intense and powerful. This is really impressive.
8. Semillon Noble Late Harvest 2004
Amber colour. Fresh apricot and orange on the nose. High acid - not at all cloying. This is very good. It still has lots of flavour intensity. A white pepper finish. Will age very well... sadly there's no more available!
Random trivia:
- The wine labels are hand-torn and applied by hand.
- The same winery also produces the Porcupine Ridge, Wolf Trap and Chocolate Block ranges. The Chocolate Block is also superb.
26 November 2012
1. Semillon 2009
This is old-vine semillon (some vines dating back to the 40s). Smoky and waxy nose. High acid, round and mouthfilling. This has a slight banana aftertaste, but not in the typical rubber/banana SA cliche way, but in a ripe fruit kind of way. This is delicious, long and will age well.
2. Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
This has a noticeable oxidative character. Partly from the bottle age, also presumably from the 27 months in new oak that the Cab Sauv gets. A rich nose: wood, spice and nuts overlaying the black fruit foundation. Some cigar box too. This is developing complexity but still has a juicy, refreshing and smooth feel on the palate so presumably has scope to improve even further. Very good stuff.
3. Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
This has a more austere nose than the 2001. Again, it has the oxidative character. More medium-bodied and thinner feel on the tongue. Still lots of fruit-flavour intensity. Tannins felt more prominent. Good length. Not the best of the wines tonight, but in a typical line-up would still be very impressive.
4. Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Noticeable oak, smoky, dark fruits. So smooth and ripe on the palate. Juicy and refreshing finish. Lots of power. High tannin, but not dominant (only really stands out when the wine is swirled round the front of the gums). Ridiculous length. This is very nice now, but should be seriously excellent in a few years.
5. Syrah 2004
Unlike the Cab Sauv, the Syrah apparently sees no new oak. Ripe black fruit and pepper on the nose. Definitely some oxidative character. Slight rancio aromas - cooked meat, savoury finish. Great length. Oh, how I wish I'd loaded up on this when I was a student and it was cheap.
6. Syrah 2006
Sour and juicy character. Like the 2006 Cab Sauv, this is a more austere wine - apparently a more difficult vintage.
7. Syrah 2009
So fruity and powerful. Ripe black fruit and pepper. Serious ripeness evident on the palate too. Seriously intense and powerful. This is really impressive.
8. Semillon Noble Late Harvest 2004
Amber colour. Fresh apricot and orange on the nose. High acid - not at all cloying. This is very good. It still has lots of flavour intensity. A white pepper finish. Will age very well... sadly there's no more available!
Random trivia:
- The wine labels are hand-torn and applied by hand.
- The same winery also produces the Porcupine Ridge, Wolf Trap and Chocolate Block ranges. The Chocolate Block is also superb.
Greatest Champagnes in the World
Milk & Honey Soho
28 November 2012
An interesting tasting, but ultimately not as impressive as I'd hoped. This was billed as comparing the finest Grandes Marques champagnes against top grower champagnes so I was expecting great things. Sadly, many of the champagnes were not very enjoyable. The recent sparkling wine tasting at the Theatre of Wine was half the price and had a much better average quality of wine. So, whilst I enjoyed the opportunity to taste a lot of these very expensive Champagnes together from an academic interest point of view, I did not enjoy drinking them as much as I was hoping to.
1. Ruinart Blanc de Blancs
Very light and simple. Nothing special. Overpriced.
2. Comte Audoin de Dampierre, Grand Cru
This was actually pretty good. Felt very intense after #1. A somewhat aggressive attack on the mousse. Lots of flavour intensity. More wood in the base wine? This opens up nicely in the glass, giving mushroom, cooked apple and nuts. Very nice.
3. Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage 2000
Bad, as remembered from the last time I had it. The initial taste is good, but it is let down by the chemical, bitter and sour finish.
4. Pol Roger Vintage 2000
Most people had this down as their favourite of the first 4. I actually came down on the side of #2. Classic cracker/biscuit character. Nice and classic, but not mind-blowing.
5. Billot Cuvee Laetitia Grand Cru, Ambonnay
This has quite a lot of power... maybe slightly higher dosage? Improved a lot in the glass. Only problem with this one is the slightly metallic finish, but it's not very striking and just me being picky. Very good overall - one of my favourites.
6. Jacques Selosse Initial Brut NV
More like a wine that happens to be sparkling, rather than a typical sparkling wine. Complex, good finish, lots of flavour intensity. Long, rich and ripe. Almost umami character. Excellent stuff!
7. Dom Perignon Vintage 2003
Very bubbly. Elegant initial taste, but the finish is a little sour and bitter. Stalky/bitter seed tannins? It's too young now, but I'm not sure that the finish will improve. Perhaps they shouldn't have bothered with a 2003?!
8. Krug Grande Cuvee
Good, but not as impressive as when I last had it. Rich and well balanced, but not the stunner I was expecting.
28 November 2012
An interesting tasting, but ultimately not as impressive as I'd hoped. This was billed as comparing the finest Grandes Marques champagnes against top grower champagnes so I was expecting great things. Sadly, many of the champagnes were not very enjoyable. The recent sparkling wine tasting at the Theatre of Wine was half the price and had a much better average quality of wine. So, whilst I enjoyed the opportunity to taste a lot of these very expensive Champagnes together from an academic interest point of view, I did not enjoy drinking them as much as I was hoping to.
1. Ruinart Blanc de Blancs
Very light and simple. Nothing special. Overpriced.
2. Comte Audoin de Dampierre, Grand Cru
This was actually pretty good. Felt very intense after #1. A somewhat aggressive attack on the mousse. Lots of flavour intensity. More wood in the base wine? This opens up nicely in the glass, giving mushroom, cooked apple and nuts. Very nice.
3. Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage 2000
Bad, as remembered from the last time I had it. The initial taste is good, but it is let down by the chemical, bitter and sour finish.
4. Pol Roger Vintage 2000
Most people had this down as their favourite of the first 4. I actually came down on the side of #2. Classic cracker/biscuit character. Nice and classic, but not mind-blowing.
5. Billot Cuvee Laetitia Grand Cru, Ambonnay
This has quite a lot of power... maybe slightly higher dosage? Improved a lot in the glass. Only problem with this one is the slightly metallic finish, but it's not very striking and just me being picky. Very good overall - one of my favourites.
6. Jacques Selosse Initial Brut NV
More like a wine that happens to be sparkling, rather than a typical sparkling wine. Complex, good finish, lots of flavour intensity. Long, rich and ripe. Almost umami character. Excellent stuff!
7. Dom Perignon Vintage 2003
Very bubbly. Elegant initial taste, but the finish is a little sour and bitter. Stalky/bitter seed tannins? It's too young now, but I'm not sure that the finish will improve. Perhaps they shouldn't have bothered with a 2003?!
8. Krug Grande Cuvee
Good, but not as impressive as when I last had it. Rich and well balanced, but not the stunner I was expecting.
Blind Tasting with Ed and Jordi
This was the final week's WSET class for Ed and Jordi so they wanted to have a big tasting as "practice" for the exam. However, by the end there was quite a lot of drinking going on so the tasting notes deteriorate towards the end! All the wines were tasted blind... which explains the unusual order in which the wines were tasted. However, you knew which number your wine was so wines 2 and 3 were tasted non-blind for me.
1. Chateauneuf du Pape, Domaine de l'Arnesque. (Vintage not noted)
Pale colour (some had it down as PN). Black cherry on the nose. Ripe fruit. High acid and juicy character on the palate. Young, but developing. Dusty tannins. I guessed New World Grenache, so got the dominant grape right. However, it could have gone either way. I went against PN since I felt the tannins were too noticeable and dusty. However, there was also something which Ed was convinced what carbonic maceration so I nearly guessed a cheap S. France Cinsault where part of the wine has undergone carbonic maceration. This shows the randomness of blind tasting!
2. Cartoixa, Scala Dei, Priorat 2006
This was one of my wines so not tasted blind
Opaque and black. Intense nose of vanilla and black fruit. Some oxidative character. Noticeable wood. High tannin, but still has a very soft and polished mouthfeel - tannins felt in balance with the acid. This was drunk with a plate of coppa (head cheese) - the pairing worked well. Some earthy, tobacco notes. Developing. Opened up amazingly in the glass, which indicates that it should probably improve for many years - particularly since this had been double-decanted a couple of hours prior to the tasting. Jordi's initial guess was that this was a priorat, so he was bang on. However, he talked himself out of it in the end and went for something else... a lesson in trusting your instincts.
3. Jim Barry, McRae Wood Shiraz, 2006
This was one of my wines so not tasted blind
Opaque, inky black. Ripe black fruit - youthful nose. I felt that there was definitely noticeable black pepper, but nobody else identified this... which probably explains why it wasn't correctly identified as a Shiraz (lots of people thought some sort of Cabernet-dominated blend). The wine is lifted and aromatic, something like menthol pretty striking on the nose. Noticeable oak. This is very full bodied. High acid and tannin, but balanced. Tastes very. very young. Liquorice aftertaste. Minerality on finish. Superb.
4. Domaine Gayda, Grenache
Insubstantial, not sure how much of this was because the previous wine overshadowed it in body so much or whether it was just how the wine tastes. Light body. Smells of cherry and some banana. Very high acid. Very sour finish. I thought this was a beaujolais, which I dislike a lot. Apparently this is a grenache. Not a fan of this one either way.
5. Kaiken Ultra Malbec 2009
I thought I'd clearly identified black pepper on the nose for this one, so I talked myself into calling this a shiraz. It was actually a malbec! Ripe black fruit. Black pepper. Dusty tannin, juicy acid. Intense palate. Floral/violet notes on the nose. A little austere finish. Very nice.
6. Vina Alberdi Rioja Reserva 2006
"Meaty, oxidative. Probably a rioja." Finally I got one right!
7. Weingut Wintner Riesling Trocken 2006
"Definitely a riesling. Slight spritz. Sour apple. Very acidic. Austrian Riesling?"
No, actually from Rheinhessen. Got the grape right though.
1. Chateauneuf du Pape, Domaine de l'Arnesque. (Vintage not noted)
Pale colour (some had it down as PN). Black cherry on the nose. Ripe fruit. High acid and juicy character on the palate. Young, but developing. Dusty tannins. I guessed New World Grenache, so got the dominant grape right. However, it could have gone either way. I went against PN since I felt the tannins were too noticeable and dusty. However, there was also something which Ed was convinced what carbonic maceration so I nearly guessed a cheap S. France Cinsault where part of the wine has undergone carbonic maceration. This shows the randomness of blind tasting!
2. Cartoixa, Scala Dei, Priorat 2006
This was one of my wines so not tasted blind
Opaque and black. Intense nose of vanilla and black fruit. Some oxidative character. Noticeable wood. High tannin, but still has a very soft and polished mouthfeel - tannins felt in balance with the acid. This was drunk with a plate of coppa (head cheese) - the pairing worked well. Some earthy, tobacco notes. Developing. Opened up amazingly in the glass, which indicates that it should probably improve for many years - particularly since this had been double-decanted a couple of hours prior to the tasting. Jordi's initial guess was that this was a priorat, so he was bang on. However, he talked himself out of it in the end and went for something else... a lesson in trusting your instincts.
3. Jim Barry, McRae Wood Shiraz, 2006
This was one of my wines so not tasted blind
Opaque, inky black. Ripe black fruit - youthful nose. I felt that there was definitely noticeable black pepper, but nobody else identified this... which probably explains why it wasn't correctly identified as a Shiraz (lots of people thought some sort of Cabernet-dominated blend). The wine is lifted and aromatic, something like menthol pretty striking on the nose. Noticeable oak. This is very full bodied. High acid and tannin, but balanced. Tastes very. very young. Liquorice aftertaste. Minerality on finish. Superb.
4. Domaine Gayda, Grenache
Insubstantial, not sure how much of this was because the previous wine overshadowed it in body so much or whether it was just how the wine tastes. Light body. Smells of cherry and some banana. Very high acid. Very sour finish. I thought this was a beaujolais, which I dislike a lot. Apparently this is a grenache. Not a fan of this one either way.
5. Kaiken Ultra Malbec 2009
I thought I'd clearly identified black pepper on the nose for this one, so I talked myself into calling this a shiraz. It was actually a malbec! Ripe black fruit. Black pepper. Dusty tannin, juicy acid. Intense palate. Floral/violet notes on the nose. A little austere finish. Very nice.
6. Vina Alberdi Rioja Reserva 2006
"Meaty, oxidative. Probably a rioja." Finally I got one right!
7. Weingut Wintner Riesling Trocken 2006
"Definitely a riesling. Slight spritz. Sour apple. Very acidic. Austrian Riesling?"
No, actually from Rheinhessen. Got the grape right though.
Sunday 2 December 2012
Aromatic Reds
Theatre of Wine
Thursday 22 Nov
1. Foillard Morgon 2010, France
Very pale. Cherry aroma, some wood. Light body, very high and prominent acid. Low tannin. Long. Almost like a good PN. Not really my thing though. £16.50
2. Thymiopoulos Jeunes Vignes 2011
This is their entry-level Xinomavro. They also have a more complex one which I must look out for. This is a deeper red colour than the previous wine (quite black). Raspberry jam very prominent on the nose, also violets. Very ripe fruit. Palate feels young and refreshing. Medium body. High acid. An almost porty character on the nose, but nothing like that on the palate. Surprisingly high tannin. This is good, easy to drink and a crowd pleaser. A good price point too at £11.70.
3. Dalzocchio Pinor Nero 2008
Amazing bouquet. Cooked fruit, floral, rich. This is seriously impressive stuff. Complex, long and well balanced. High acid, mild tannin. Some vegetal/barnyard complexity but still very easy and enjoyable. This was great. Everyone in the room loved this. £26
4. Guillaume Collection Reservee Pinot Noir 2006
Complex, forest floor aromas. Lots of red fruit underneath. More powerful nose than the previous wine, but a much more austere palate. Basically not enough fruit left on the palate to balance out the secondary characters. Acidity is particularly noticeable on the finish (which is a little sour). OK, but at £26 a bottle I'd much rather have the previous wine.
5. Castro Ventosa el Castro del Valtuille Barrica Bierzo 2009
Silky mouthfeel. A little closed on the nose. Some black fruit, quite dark and brooding character. This is nice but nonedescript. I like it but it's not particularly aromatic - didn't really fit in the tasting.
6. Fay Valtellina 'Il Glicine' Superiore Sassella 2009
This wine is from Lombardy. Ripe red fruit. Prunes and dried fruits. High acid, relatively light body. Good length, refreshing, silky and delicate. This is good, interesting and a crowd pleaser, but a little too expensive given the competition so far at this price point £23.50
7. Allessandro Veglio Langhe Nebbiolo 2009
Deep colour. Rich and ripe nose with smoky overtones. Silky mouthfeel. Refreshing acid. Very pleasant but pales in comparison to the much more serious wine which followed (same grape, same producer). £15.50
8. Allessandro Veglio Barolo Gattera 2008
Complex, smoky and spicy. This has lots of black fruit and something like beeswax. Licquorice on the palate. This is a superb. £35.80
9. Jim Barry McCrae Wood Shiraz 2006
Deep and opaque. Floral, lifted, black fruit, oak and black pepper. Juicy black fruit on the palate. Very high tannin. Intense, full bodied. Powerful, with serious fruit intensity. Great stuff £26.80
10. Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape Vielles Vignes 1997
Aged, vegetal nature. Basically smells like an old red wine. Nice, ripe, mouthfilling and complex. Good, but overpriced at £53 per bottle.
11. Au Bon Climat Isabelle 2009
Very pale colour. Ripe red fruit and nutty aromas on nose. Maybe hazelnut. This is very pleasant and will develop nicely.
Thursday 22 Nov
1. Foillard Morgon 2010, France
Very pale. Cherry aroma, some wood. Light body, very high and prominent acid. Low tannin. Long. Almost like a good PN. Not really my thing though. £16.50
2. Thymiopoulos Jeunes Vignes 2011
This is their entry-level Xinomavro. They also have a more complex one which I must look out for. This is a deeper red colour than the previous wine (quite black). Raspberry jam very prominent on the nose, also violets. Very ripe fruit. Palate feels young and refreshing. Medium body. High acid. An almost porty character on the nose, but nothing like that on the palate. Surprisingly high tannin. This is good, easy to drink and a crowd pleaser. A good price point too at £11.70.
3. Dalzocchio Pinor Nero 2008
Amazing bouquet. Cooked fruit, floral, rich. This is seriously impressive stuff. Complex, long and well balanced. High acid, mild tannin. Some vegetal/barnyard complexity but still very easy and enjoyable. This was great. Everyone in the room loved this. £26
4. Guillaume Collection Reservee Pinot Noir 2006
Complex, forest floor aromas. Lots of red fruit underneath. More powerful nose than the previous wine, but a much more austere palate. Basically not enough fruit left on the palate to balance out the secondary characters. Acidity is particularly noticeable on the finish (which is a little sour). OK, but at £26 a bottle I'd much rather have the previous wine.
5. Castro Ventosa el Castro del Valtuille Barrica Bierzo 2009
Silky mouthfeel. A little closed on the nose. Some black fruit, quite dark and brooding character. This is nice but nonedescript. I like it but it's not particularly aromatic - didn't really fit in the tasting.
6. Fay Valtellina 'Il Glicine' Superiore Sassella 2009
This wine is from Lombardy. Ripe red fruit. Prunes and dried fruits. High acid, relatively light body. Good length, refreshing, silky and delicate. This is good, interesting and a crowd pleaser, but a little too expensive given the competition so far at this price point £23.50
7. Allessandro Veglio Langhe Nebbiolo 2009
Deep colour. Rich and ripe nose with smoky overtones. Silky mouthfeel. Refreshing acid. Very pleasant but pales in comparison to the much more serious wine which followed (same grape, same producer). £15.50
8. Allessandro Veglio Barolo Gattera 2008
Complex, smoky and spicy. This has lots of black fruit and something like beeswax. Licquorice on the palate. This is a superb. £35.80
9. Jim Barry McCrae Wood Shiraz 2006
Deep and opaque. Floral, lifted, black fruit, oak and black pepper. Juicy black fruit on the palate. Very high tannin. Intense, full bodied. Powerful, with serious fruit intensity. Great stuff £26.80
10. Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape Vielles Vignes 1997
Aged, vegetal nature. Basically smells like an old red wine. Nice, ripe, mouthfilling and complex. Good, but overpriced at £53 per bottle.
11. Au Bon Climat Isabelle 2009
Very pale colour. Ripe red fruit and nutty aromas on nose. Maybe hazelnut. This is very pleasant and will develop nicely.
Fine Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Theatre of Wine
8 Nov 2012
1. Domaine Huet Vouvray 2007 Petillant, Loire
Petillant implies lower pressure than Champagne. This has a cooked apple character somewhat redolant of apple pie. Good, crisp acidity. Soft and prickly bubbles, low pressure. Long. Cooked apple flavour lasts until the end. This is very good and can apparently age well. £22.70
2. Gaston Chiquet Selection Brut, NV, Dizy
Custard, bread. Very intense fruity palate. Fine mousse. Very buttery. Something savoury on the nose and finish. Extremely drinkable. Good length. This is 60% PN from a grower producer. Good stuff. £26.00
3. Ridgeview Bloomsbury 2010, East Sussex
This seems popular with many people but I'm not a huge fan. It's been a while since I had either this or the Nyetimber (neither are close to good value any more), but my memory of the Nyetimber is much better than this. It's very restrained - nothing bad about it, but nothing that particularly stands out. Very fine mousse. The initial attack fades quickly and a sour note remains on the finish. OK, but definitely trading with a novelty-value English premium. (Having said that, it opens up nicely in the glass and works very well with the cheese). £22.50
4. Edoardo Miroglio Brut 2007, Bulgaria
Good. Very much a New World character: intense initial hit of fruit, ripe and easy character. This is good now, but felt out of balance after going back to it after the following wine. $15.80
5. Guillaume La Flute Enchantee, France
Spectacular value. Very ripe (almost cooked) fruit character. This has serious power. This was paired with a Comte cheese - stood up to it perfectly. This opened up more in the glass and even coped with being tasted again after the Mesnil (number 8). Cracking stuff for the price, but not as subtle as the proper stuff which came later in the tasting. £12!
6. Recaredo Brut Nature 2007, Alt Penedes
Almost tea-like. Bitter oils. Almonds. Plenty of length and intense flavour. Good, lots of acid and worked well with the charcuterie. Expensive for an entry level cava, and not worth the price, but very pleasant nonetheless. £24.20
7. Castel Noarna, Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Trentino
The winery is located in a 15th century castle - sounds like one to visit if I'm ever in the area.
A meaty nose overlaying acidic fruit (lime & pineapple). The pineapple is particularly noticeable on the palate, much more clearly than on the nose. Very sour finish (almost grapefruit). Slight funk. Crisp acidity. Good, but unusual. £22.00
8. Pierre Peters, Grand Cru Cuvee Speciale, Les Chetillons, 2002, Mesnil
Crackers & butter on the nose. MALO intensity. This has real flavour intensity and umami on the palate. A fine mousse. Structure - lots of acidity. However, the buttery notes offset the intense acid making it less austere. This has great length and serious power. Somewhat like marmite - not just because both have umami, but also because it seems to polarise people - I liked it! £63.00
9. Champagne Vilmart Cuvee NV
Rose, 90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay
Strawberry and raspberry aroma profile. Very fine mousse. Elegant rather than powerful. A meaty aroma once it opens up. The flavour intensity dips, making you think it's going to be a little short, but then comes back and lasts for quite a while. Complex, good and unusual. Slightly let down by bitterness on the finish. £49.00
10. Jacques Selosse, Rose Grand Cru, Brut, Avize
This is made with lees stirring - real care and attention paid to the quality of the base wine. Noticeable wood. Red fruit. Lots of subtle flavours on the nose. Full bodied, mineralic. Like a sparkling "wine" rather than a typical "sparkling wine". Excellent. £110.50
11. Jacques Selosse, Initial, Grand Cru, Brut, Avize
This is a blanc de blanc where the base wine is aged using a solera system! A somewhat nutty nose. Exploding mousse - almost feels as though it turns to foam in the mouth. Soft mouthfeel, but great power and flavour intensity. Lemon, orange, vanilla, oak. Crisp acidity. High acid, but plenty of fruit so it's not immediately noticeable. Very, very good stuff. £93.00
Random notes:
- Petit Meslier, Arbanne, Pinot Blanc are 3 other, basically irrelevant grape varieties also allowed in Champagne.
- Some sparkling wine is produced by the "ancestral method". This is a new one on me. Apparently made like a bottle-conditioned beer. The yeast goes dormant during the fermentation process but restarts once it's bottled.
- Second fermentation for Champagne usually done under a crown cap. This is because if it were closed by a cork in this period it would double the chances of being contaminated by cork taint.
8 Nov 2012
1. Domaine Huet Vouvray 2007 Petillant, Loire
Petillant implies lower pressure than Champagne. This has a cooked apple character somewhat redolant of apple pie. Good, crisp acidity. Soft and prickly bubbles, low pressure. Long. Cooked apple flavour lasts until the end. This is very good and can apparently age well. £22.70
2. Gaston Chiquet Selection Brut, NV, Dizy
Custard, bread. Very intense fruity palate. Fine mousse. Very buttery. Something savoury on the nose and finish. Extremely drinkable. Good length. This is 60% PN from a grower producer. Good stuff. £26.00
3. Ridgeview Bloomsbury 2010, East Sussex
This seems popular with many people but I'm not a huge fan. It's been a while since I had either this or the Nyetimber (neither are close to good value any more), but my memory of the Nyetimber is much better than this. It's very restrained - nothing bad about it, but nothing that particularly stands out. Very fine mousse. The initial attack fades quickly and a sour note remains on the finish. OK, but definitely trading with a novelty-value English premium. (Having said that, it opens up nicely in the glass and works very well with the cheese). £22.50
4. Edoardo Miroglio Brut 2007, Bulgaria
Good. Very much a New World character: intense initial hit of fruit, ripe and easy character. This is good now, but felt out of balance after going back to it after the following wine. $15.80
5. Guillaume La Flute Enchantee, France
Spectacular value. Very ripe (almost cooked) fruit character. This has serious power. This was paired with a Comte cheese - stood up to it perfectly. This opened up more in the glass and even coped with being tasted again after the Mesnil (number 8). Cracking stuff for the price, but not as subtle as the proper stuff which came later in the tasting. £12!
6. Recaredo Brut Nature 2007, Alt Penedes
Almost tea-like. Bitter oils. Almonds. Plenty of length and intense flavour. Good, lots of acid and worked well with the charcuterie. Expensive for an entry level cava, and not worth the price, but very pleasant nonetheless. £24.20
7. Castel Noarna, Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Trentino
The winery is located in a 15th century castle - sounds like one to visit if I'm ever in the area.
A meaty nose overlaying acidic fruit (lime & pineapple). The pineapple is particularly noticeable on the palate, much more clearly than on the nose. Very sour finish (almost grapefruit). Slight funk. Crisp acidity. Good, but unusual. £22.00
8. Pierre Peters, Grand Cru Cuvee Speciale, Les Chetillons, 2002, Mesnil
Crackers & butter on the nose. MALO intensity. This has real flavour intensity and umami on the palate. A fine mousse. Structure - lots of acidity. However, the buttery notes offset the intense acid making it less austere. This has great length and serious power. Somewhat like marmite - not just because both have umami, but also because it seems to polarise people - I liked it! £63.00
9. Champagne Vilmart Cuvee NV
Rose, 90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay
Strawberry and raspberry aroma profile. Very fine mousse. Elegant rather than powerful. A meaty aroma once it opens up. The flavour intensity dips, making you think it's going to be a little short, but then comes back and lasts for quite a while. Complex, good and unusual. Slightly let down by bitterness on the finish. £49.00
10. Jacques Selosse, Rose Grand Cru, Brut, Avize
This is made with lees stirring - real care and attention paid to the quality of the base wine. Noticeable wood. Red fruit. Lots of subtle flavours on the nose. Full bodied, mineralic. Like a sparkling "wine" rather than a typical "sparkling wine". Excellent. £110.50
11. Jacques Selosse, Initial, Grand Cru, Brut, Avize
This is a blanc de blanc where the base wine is aged using a solera system! A somewhat nutty nose. Exploding mousse - almost feels as though it turns to foam in the mouth. Soft mouthfeel, but great power and flavour intensity. Lemon, orange, vanilla, oak. Crisp acidity. High acid, but plenty of fruit so it's not immediately noticeable. Very, very good stuff. £93.00
Random notes:
- Petit Meslier, Arbanne, Pinot Blanc are 3 other, basically irrelevant grape varieties also allowed in Champagne.
- Some sparkling wine is produced by the "ancestral method". This is a new one on me. Apparently made like a bottle-conditioned beer. The yeast goes dormant during the fermentation process but restarts once it's bottled.
- Second fermentation for Champagne usually done under a crown cap. This is because if it were closed by a cork in this period it would double the chances of being contaminated by cork taint.
Saturday 20 October 2012
Palermo to Puglia: Sicily and the Italian South
Theatre of Wine
18 October 2012
1. Di Majo Norante Rami Falanghina 2011, Molise
90% Falanghina, 10% Fiano
Some floral notes and mineral aromas (slate?). High, crisp acidity. Mineralic nature continues on the palate. This has had some skin maceration - gives it quite a lot of intense flavour. This is well balanced. Very good. £11.30
2. Gioia Al Negro Ombrosa Romantica Fiano 2010, Basilicata
Medium-intensity floral and melon nose. Really good - but a little hard to describe the flavour. Less acidic, this has a more waxy mouthfeel. The fruit is more cooked in character and there is a strongly herbal nature to the wine. I liked this - it was very interesting. £9.40
3. Occhipinti SP68 Bianco 2011, Sicilia
(Named after the road which goes past the vineyard)
This wine was made by crazy biodynamic hippies so very little intervention by the winemaker/growers and absolutely no sulphur. Even more bizarrely - they don't use temperature control during fermentation - for a white wine from Sicily. They obviously like to live dangerously!
Smells like a muscat (turns out to by zibibbo, which is part of the muscat family). As a result, it initially smells as though it will be a sweet wine, but is actually bone dry. A weird oxidized note on the nose. Noticeably mineralic on the palate. This is definitely an interesting wine, but it's not a particularly enjoyable wine. It hits all the technical things you want in a wine - complexity, intensity etc - but something about the whole just doesn't work for me. Fine for a tasting sample, but you'd probably not want to crack open a bottle and drink lots of it. £16.40
4. Guccione Gibril Nerello Mascalese 2009, Sicilia
An extremely pale colour for a red wine - think Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo. Medium-intensity red fruit. Slight deliberate oxidation? Tasted very good, but fades a little quickly. Very interesting - tannins are more towards the PN than the Nebbiolo end of the spectrum. However, it definitely had the stuffing to stand up to the (amazing) salami. The herbal flavour of the salami was totally brought to life by the combination with the wine. One of those beautiful occasions where the combination is better than the sum of the parts! £23.90
5. Occhipinti Il Frappato 2010, Sicilia
The aroma profile here is strongly towards the red fruit end of the spectrum and this is still quite primary in nature. Light, delicate aromas. Nice, but not worth £25. Very quaffable and enjoyable. I prefer the previous wine though. This has a soft mouthfeel, but is actually quite tannic. £24.80
6. Gioia Al Negro Nerulum Rosso 2007, Basilicata
This was the best of the reds - apart from the Taurasi (at 4 times the price). It was the first of the reds which was dark and opaque. Darker nose: complex, sweet, ripe dark fruit. Also, wood, liquorice and herbs. Palate is much lighter and more refreshing. Almost juicy fruit. Very elegant. Lots of complex flavours on the palate too though - more like leather. An interesting contrast between the expectations from the nose, and the showing on the palate. And a total bargain at £11.50.
7. Mocavero Rosso 2009, Salice Salentino (Puglia)
(Salice Salentino... Salice means "willow". Like Salicylic Acid)
Intense flavour. Almost coffee-like bite, but with a smooth mouthfeel (tannins there nonetheless). Spice aftertaste. Nice, but not as good as previous wine. £10.20
8. Fatalone Primitivo 2008, Gioia del Golle
Very good. I must be a little drunk by now as I'm struggling to accurately describe the taste of this wine. A lifted, herbal aroma. Velvety mouthfeel. Intense dark flavours. Relatively low acid. This would be great with a steak! £12.70
9. Pietracupa Taurasi 2006, Campania
Deep, dark colour. Dark fruit, spice, leather and balsamic notes(! but in a good way) on the nose. Noticeable minerality on the palate. This is acidic and refreshing, but powerful too. Tastes very young despite being 6 years old - would be great with beef. Soft and dusty tannin. This is excellent - a classy wine. Beautiful finish too. Shame it's £41.60
10. Ceratti Greco di Bianco 2006, Calabria
This smells like a Beaumes de Venise. This weird grape must also be part of the Muscat family. I'm not a huge muscat fan, but this is not bad. Very sweet but good acidity. Same colour as honey, which probably accounts for all the arguments people were having about whether it tasted like honey or not (not honey, more dried apricot and green grapes). A nice sweet wine, but nothing more. Would not pay £29.70 for it though.
18 October 2012
1. Di Majo Norante Rami Falanghina 2011, Molise
90% Falanghina, 10% Fiano
Some floral notes and mineral aromas (slate?). High, crisp acidity. Mineralic nature continues on the palate. This has had some skin maceration - gives it quite a lot of intense flavour. This is well balanced. Very good. £11.30
2. Gioia Al Negro Ombrosa Romantica Fiano 2010, Basilicata
Medium-intensity floral and melon nose. Really good - but a little hard to describe the flavour. Less acidic, this has a more waxy mouthfeel. The fruit is more cooked in character and there is a strongly herbal nature to the wine. I liked this - it was very interesting. £9.40
3. Occhipinti SP68 Bianco 2011, Sicilia
(Named after the road which goes past the vineyard)
This wine was made by crazy biodynamic hippies so very little intervention by the winemaker/growers and absolutely no sulphur. Even more bizarrely - they don't use temperature control during fermentation - for a white wine from Sicily. They obviously like to live dangerously!
Smells like a muscat (turns out to by zibibbo, which is part of the muscat family). As a result, it initially smells as though it will be a sweet wine, but is actually bone dry. A weird oxidized note on the nose. Noticeably mineralic on the palate. This is definitely an interesting wine, but it's not a particularly enjoyable wine. It hits all the technical things you want in a wine - complexity, intensity etc - but something about the whole just doesn't work for me. Fine for a tasting sample, but you'd probably not want to crack open a bottle and drink lots of it. £16.40
4. Guccione Gibril Nerello Mascalese 2009, Sicilia
An extremely pale colour for a red wine - think Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo. Medium-intensity red fruit. Slight deliberate oxidation? Tasted very good, but fades a little quickly. Very interesting - tannins are more towards the PN than the Nebbiolo end of the spectrum. However, it definitely had the stuffing to stand up to the (amazing) salami. The herbal flavour of the salami was totally brought to life by the combination with the wine. One of those beautiful occasions where the combination is better than the sum of the parts! £23.90
5. Occhipinti Il Frappato 2010, Sicilia
The aroma profile here is strongly towards the red fruit end of the spectrum and this is still quite primary in nature. Light, delicate aromas. Nice, but not worth £25. Very quaffable and enjoyable. I prefer the previous wine though. This has a soft mouthfeel, but is actually quite tannic. £24.80
6. Gioia Al Negro Nerulum Rosso 2007, Basilicata
This was the best of the reds - apart from the Taurasi (at 4 times the price). It was the first of the reds which was dark and opaque. Darker nose: complex, sweet, ripe dark fruit. Also, wood, liquorice and herbs. Palate is much lighter and more refreshing. Almost juicy fruit. Very elegant. Lots of complex flavours on the palate too though - more like leather. An interesting contrast between the expectations from the nose, and the showing on the palate. And a total bargain at £11.50.
7. Mocavero Rosso 2009, Salice Salentino (Puglia)
(Salice Salentino... Salice means "willow". Like Salicylic Acid)
Intense flavour. Almost coffee-like bite, but with a smooth mouthfeel (tannins there nonetheless). Spice aftertaste. Nice, but not as good as previous wine. £10.20
8. Fatalone Primitivo 2008, Gioia del Golle
Very good. I must be a little drunk by now as I'm struggling to accurately describe the taste of this wine. A lifted, herbal aroma. Velvety mouthfeel. Intense dark flavours. Relatively low acid. This would be great with a steak! £12.70
9. Pietracupa Taurasi 2006, Campania
Deep, dark colour. Dark fruit, spice, leather and balsamic notes(! but in a good way) on the nose. Noticeable minerality on the palate. This is acidic and refreshing, but powerful too. Tastes very young despite being 6 years old - would be great with beef. Soft and dusty tannin. This is excellent - a classy wine. Beautiful finish too. Shame it's £41.60
10. Ceratti Greco di Bianco 2006, Calabria
This smells like a Beaumes de Venise. This weird grape must also be part of the Muscat family. I'm not a huge muscat fan, but this is not bad. Very sweet but good acidity. Same colour as honey, which probably accounts for all the arguments people were having about whether it tasted like honey or not (not honey, more dried apricot and green grapes). A nice sweet wine, but nothing more. Would not pay £29.70 for it though.
Tuesday 4 September 2012
Spanish Mediterranean Tasting
Thursday 26 July 2012
This was the first of the Theatre of Wine tastings I've been to, but I'll definitely be going back. Excellent tasting - very interesting wines and extremely knowledgeable speaker. So pleased to have such a good wine shop in the local area!
1. Castillo Perelada, Cava Brut Reserva NV
Very appley. Fine and restrained mousse. Fresh, fruity, reasonably intense flavour. Not bad.
Cost: £11.30
2. La Rosita Brut NV (375ml)
A pink sparkly apparently made by a scottish lady who has moved out to Spain. Made from Monastrelle/Matarro. Not bad. Ripe red fruit character. Nothing special.
Cost £10.00 (per half bottle)
3. Jose Pariente, Verdejo 2011, Rueda
Smells quite like a typical sauvignon blanc but tastes a lot more interesting. Some ripe, fleshy character. Almost peachy. Very nice. Surprisingly good.
Cost: £12.30
4. Equipo Navazos, La Bota de Manzanilla no.32
Great nutty intensity. Almond, salty, minerality. Real power and intensity. Lots of yeast autolysis character. Tastes of the ocean - seaweed/umami. Delicious.
Cost: £26.40
5. Equipo Navazos, La Bota de Amontillado no.31
Oxidized, smells a little like a dank cave. Lots of power. Nutty, caramel, almonds, cinnamon. A true "nut cluster bomb". Incredible length. Delicious, but very different to previous.
Cost £52.00
6. Anima Negra, 2008, Mallorca
Surprisingly pale given the smoky, meaty, BBQ nose. Soft and silky tannin. High acid. Something ethereal (reminiscent of a Burgundy). Violets, floral, licquorice. Rich and aromatic. Only negative is it's a little short.
Cost: £34.50
7. Capcanes, Lasendal, Garnatxa Barrica 2008, Montsant
Black fruit, cinnamon. Soft mouthfeel. A little short. Nice, but doesn't stand up to the tapas.
Cost: £9.00
8. Alemany i Corrio, Pas Curtei, 2004, Penedes
This was amazing, and a total bargain at £8.50. Inky, meaty and savoury, but with black fruit overtones. Perfect age - very good now. Violets, vanilla, tobacco. Soft and silky mouthfeel. Well balanced and complex. This is excellent.
Cost: a ludicrously good value £8.50
9. Celler del Pont, Lo Givot 2003, Priorat
Dark colour, but not as inky as the previous wine. High (searing) acidity, but soft tannins (there are plenty of tannins, but not as much as expected). A little out of balance. Quite good now, probably won't improve with age.
Cost: £20.00
10. Bodegas Bentomiz, Ariyanas Dulce, 2007, Malaga (500ml)
Classic muscat. Acidic and grapey.
Cost: 18.40
11. Dolc Mataro 2009, Alta Alella (500ml)
This is from the "mataro", aka mourvedre/monastrell grape. A nice, warm character. Floral notes come through on the palate, less so on the nose. Full bodied, spicy. Spft, ripe and enjoyable. This is good and interesting, but I probably wouldn't pay that price for it.
Cost: £22.30
Random notes from the tasting:
1. Try brown bread with vintage champagne. He says it's a classic combination where the brown bread really enhances the flavours of the Champagne. I've never tried it, must do so soon.
2. Look out for dry Banyuls. I've never come across it before.
3. The salty flavour in sherry - current thinking is that it comes from glutamates (which presumably come from the flor?). Glutamate, like monosodium glutamate, hence umami/salty-seaweed flavour. Sounds possible. And interesting contrast to the salty flavour in Santorini wines (which apparently genuinely does come from the salty sea spray getting on the vines).
This was the first of the Theatre of Wine tastings I've been to, but I'll definitely be going back. Excellent tasting - very interesting wines and extremely knowledgeable speaker. So pleased to have such a good wine shop in the local area!
1. Castillo Perelada, Cava Brut Reserva NV
Very appley. Fine and restrained mousse. Fresh, fruity, reasonably intense flavour. Not bad.
Cost: £11.30
2. La Rosita Brut NV (375ml)
A pink sparkly apparently made by a scottish lady who has moved out to Spain. Made from Monastrelle/Matarro. Not bad. Ripe red fruit character. Nothing special.
Cost £10.00 (per half bottle)
3. Jose Pariente, Verdejo 2011, Rueda
Smells quite like a typical sauvignon blanc but tastes a lot more interesting. Some ripe, fleshy character. Almost peachy. Very nice. Surprisingly good.
Cost: £12.30
4. Equipo Navazos, La Bota de Manzanilla no.32
Great nutty intensity. Almond, salty, minerality. Real power and intensity. Lots of yeast autolysis character. Tastes of the ocean - seaweed/umami. Delicious.
Cost: £26.40
5. Equipo Navazos, La Bota de Amontillado no.31
Oxidized, smells a little like a dank cave. Lots of power. Nutty, caramel, almonds, cinnamon. A true "nut cluster bomb". Incredible length. Delicious, but very different to previous.
Cost £52.00
6. Anima Negra, 2008, Mallorca
Surprisingly pale given the smoky, meaty, BBQ nose. Soft and silky tannin. High acid. Something ethereal (reminiscent of a Burgundy). Violets, floral, licquorice. Rich and aromatic. Only negative is it's a little short.
Cost: £34.50
7. Capcanes, Lasendal, Garnatxa Barrica 2008, Montsant
Black fruit, cinnamon. Soft mouthfeel. A little short. Nice, but doesn't stand up to the tapas.
Cost: £9.00
8. Alemany i Corrio, Pas Curtei, 2004, Penedes
This was amazing, and a total bargain at £8.50. Inky, meaty and savoury, but with black fruit overtones. Perfect age - very good now. Violets, vanilla, tobacco. Soft and silky mouthfeel. Well balanced and complex. This is excellent.
Cost: a ludicrously good value £8.50
9. Celler del Pont, Lo Givot 2003, Priorat
Dark colour, but not as inky as the previous wine. High (searing) acidity, but soft tannins (there are plenty of tannins, but not as much as expected). A little out of balance. Quite good now, probably won't improve with age.
Cost: £20.00
10. Bodegas Bentomiz, Ariyanas Dulce, 2007, Malaga (500ml)
Classic muscat. Acidic and grapey.
Cost: 18.40
11. Dolc Mataro 2009, Alta Alella (500ml)
This is from the "mataro", aka mourvedre/monastrell grape. A nice, warm character. Floral notes come through on the palate, less so on the nose. Full bodied, spicy. Spft, ripe and enjoyable. This is good and interesting, but I probably wouldn't pay that price for it.
Cost: £22.30
1. Try brown bread with vintage champagne. He says it's a classic combination where the brown bread really enhances the flavours of the Champagne. I've never tried it, must do so soon.
2. Look out for dry Banyuls. I've never come across it before.
3. The salty flavour in sherry - current thinking is that it comes from glutamates (which presumably come from the flor?). Glutamate, like monosodium glutamate, hence umami/salty-seaweed flavour. Sounds possible. And interesting contrast to the salty flavour in Santorini wines (which apparently genuinely does come from the salty sea spray getting on the vines).
World Tour of Pinot Noir
Friday 22 July 2012
After what seems like years of waiting, we finally found a weekend which Ed could do this tasting and it was well worth waiting for. However, we definitely had to wait - Ed got stuck late at work and arrived an hour late, by which time we'd already polished off plenty of Champagne (well that's got Pinot Noir in it too...) So, perhaps not the best way to taste the expensive Burgundies at the end - my notes are a little sparse towards the end considering the pedigree of the wines!
It was really interesting to see PN from around the world and also to try some New World PN with a little bottle age. Some worked particularly well - others less so. The best of the high-end burgundies at the end were amazing, if way too young. However, the more modest burgundies were quite disappointing... And so it goes with this particularly fickle grape.
1. Glen Carlou, Pinot Noir, 2007 (Paarl, SA)
Primary red fruit character, but overlaid with aromas of the forest. Note that this wine is 5 years old, quite interesting to try a "new world" PN with a few years age. Soft mouthfeel. Good, juicy fruit and acid. This wine has the acid of a cold-climate but the fruit of a warm climate. Not bad. Unlikely to improve with further age though.
2. Errazuriz "Wild Ferment" Pinot Noir 2010 (Casablanca, Chile)
Weird funky smell. Some forest-floor aromas. Very acidic. Decent length. Very pale. I really don't like the initial smell of this, but once you get past it, the taste is actually surprisingly nice.
3. Weingut Okonomierat Rebholz Spatburgunder trocken, 2004 (Pfalz, Germany)
Ed warned us that German Pinot Noir can be an odd beast as apparently they often try to make it in a style to which it is not suited. For example, it's often overly extracted and sometimes even has residual sugar (eh?!). It's always expensive regardless of the style (as a result of the dearth of red wine in Germany). However, this is one of the good examples.
Complex aromas, spice, savoury-meaty, red fruit. Too light on the palate though - perhaps done in by age? Very pale, very low tannin. I doubt anyone (apart from Ed?) still has any of this wine, but if they do it should be drunk asap.
4. Paul Cluver Pinot Noir, 2006 (Elgin, SA)
The old VB favourite... but from an older vintage! (The old, old favourite..?) I must admit that the age confused me here as I didn't recognise this. Having had the Paul Cluver PN on so many occasions, the BV crew have got a bit of a downer on it. However, I enjoyed this. It seems to improve with age, but the taste fades very quickly once swallowed.
5. Robert Mondavi Carneros PN, 2008 (Napa Valley, USA)
A bit of a shock to the system. The fruit here is almost sweet and jammy. Too much of a hot climate style. Dark colour, not a typical PN. Can see why some people like it, but it's not my style.
6. Bergacker Cuvee 1999
This was a weird one that Ed threw in for fun. It's a Spatburgunder / Cabernet Sauvignon blend! Dark colour (presumably from the Cabernet). Surprisingly good. Full bodied. It is aging really well - I would not have thought it was that old. More cabernet in character than PN. This showed well... perhaps just because it really stood out from the other wines.
7. Furst Cengraferberg Spatburgunder trocken, 2005 (Franken, Germany)
Rich and ripe. Surprisingly concentrated. Don't really have many notes for this, but remember enjoying it.
8. Wine Society Exhibition Martinborough PN, 2004 (Made by Craggy Range)
Excellent wine - one of the most enjoyable for drinking now of the entire tasting (which is impressive given the competition!). Great, complex aromas. Silky mouthfeel. Juicy acidity. Ethereal nose - definitely more burgundian in style than new world.
9. Sylvain Debord Cote de Nuits Village, 2008 (An M&S award winner)
Fruit is red berry in character. Faded very quickly and lacked complexity. OK, but probably very expensive for what it is. Hard to imagine the low quality of the competition if this won an award?
10. Domaine Jean Chauvnet, Nuit-St-George, 2005
No notes. Must have been getting a little drunk by this point!
11. Domaine de la Salle Beaune, Champimonts, 1er Cru, 2008
Elegant and classy initial attack. Sadly fades too quickly. Nice, but a little dim.
12. Morey-Saint-Denis, Domaine Dujac, 2008
Sadly this wine was not showing its best. Very uninspiring. Opens up a little in the glass, but still nothing amazing.
13. Pommard "les Rugiens", Domaine Lejeune, 2007
Powerful, but also with a soft, silky texture. High acid. Lots of red fruit. Fairly powerful. Not as amazing as I'd have hoped though. Hopefully just needs time.
14. Vosne Romanee, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard et Fils, 2008
Quite a pale colour. High acidity, but well balanced with the refined and elegant fruit. Good structure, good length. Still very much on the primary fruit side of things. This is a very good wine, but needs time to show its best.
15. Mazis-Chamberin Grand Cru, Domaine Philippe Naddef, 2006
Not a producer I'd come across before - this was awesome. Lots and lots of power. This hints strongly at future greatness, but it still tastes so young it's hard to know (plus we'd had a lot of wine by this point - probably not optimal conditions to taste it!). Lots of fruit, powerful palate. Total infanticide!
After what seems like years of waiting, we finally found a weekend which Ed could do this tasting and it was well worth waiting for. However, we definitely had to wait - Ed got stuck late at work and arrived an hour late, by which time we'd already polished off plenty of Champagne (well that's got Pinot Noir in it too...) So, perhaps not the best way to taste the expensive Burgundies at the end - my notes are a little sparse towards the end considering the pedigree of the wines!
It was really interesting to see PN from around the world and also to try some New World PN with a little bottle age. Some worked particularly well - others less so. The best of the high-end burgundies at the end were amazing, if way too young. However, the more modest burgundies were quite disappointing... And so it goes with this particularly fickle grape.
1. Glen Carlou, Pinot Noir, 2007 (Paarl, SA)
Primary red fruit character, but overlaid with aromas of the forest. Note that this wine is 5 years old, quite interesting to try a "new world" PN with a few years age. Soft mouthfeel. Good, juicy fruit and acid. This wine has the acid of a cold-climate but the fruit of a warm climate. Not bad. Unlikely to improve with further age though.
2. Errazuriz "Wild Ferment" Pinot Noir 2010 (Casablanca, Chile)
Weird funky smell. Some forest-floor aromas. Very acidic. Decent length. Very pale. I really don't like the initial smell of this, but once you get past it, the taste is actually surprisingly nice.
3. Weingut Okonomierat Rebholz Spatburgunder trocken, 2004 (Pfalz, Germany)
Ed warned us that German Pinot Noir can be an odd beast as apparently they often try to make it in a style to which it is not suited. For example, it's often overly extracted and sometimes even has residual sugar (eh?!). It's always expensive regardless of the style (as a result of the dearth of red wine in Germany). However, this is one of the good examples.
Complex aromas, spice, savoury-meaty, red fruit. Too light on the palate though - perhaps done in by age? Very pale, very low tannin. I doubt anyone (apart from Ed?) still has any of this wine, but if they do it should be drunk asap.
4. Paul Cluver Pinot Noir, 2006 (Elgin, SA)
The old VB favourite... but from an older vintage! (The old, old favourite..?) I must admit that the age confused me here as I didn't recognise this. Having had the Paul Cluver PN on so many occasions, the BV crew have got a bit of a downer on it. However, I enjoyed this. It seems to improve with age, but the taste fades very quickly once swallowed.
5. Robert Mondavi Carneros PN, 2008 (Napa Valley, USA)
A bit of a shock to the system. The fruit here is almost sweet and jammy. Too much of a hot climate style. Dark colour, not a typical PN. Can see why some people like it, but it's not my style.
6. Bergacker Cuvee 1999
This was a weird one that Ed threw in for fun. It's a Spatburgunder / Cabernet Sauvignon blend! Dark colour (presumably from the Cabernet). Surprisingly good. Full bodied. It is aging really well - I would not have thought it was that old. More cabernet in character than PN. This showed well... perhaps just because it really stood out from the other wines.
7. Furst Cengraferberg Spatburgunder trocken, 2005 (Franken, Germany)
Rich and ripe. Surprisingly concentrated. Don't really have many notes for this, but remember enjoying it.
8. Wine Society Exhibition Martinborough PN, 2004 (Made by Craggy Range)
Excellent wine - one of the most enjoyable for drinking now of the entire tasting (which is impressive given the competition!). Great, complex aromas. Silky mouthfeel. Juicy acidity. Ethereal nose - definitely more burgundian in style than new world.
9. Sylvain Debord Cote de Nuits Village, 2008 (An M&S award winner)
Fruit is red berry in character. Faded very quickly and lacked complexity. OK, but probably very expensive for what it is. Hard to imagine the low quality of the competition if this won an award?
10. Domaine Jean Chauvnet, Nuit-St-George, 2005
No notes. Must have been getting a little drunk by this point!
11. Domaine de la Salle Beaune, Champimonts, 1er Cru, 2008
Elegant and classy initial attack. Sadly fades too quickly. Nice, but a little dim.
12. Morey-Saint-Denis, Domaine Dujac, 2008
Sadly this wine was not showing its best. Very uninspiring. Opens up a little in the glass, but still nothing amazing.
13. Pommard "les Rugiens", Domaine Lejeune, 2007
Powerful, but also with a soft, silky texture. High acid. Lots of red fruit. Fairly powerful. Not as amazing as I'd have hoped though. Hopefully just needs time.
14. Vosne Romanee, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard et Fils, 2008
Quite a pale colour. High acidity, but well balanced with the refined and elegant fruit. Good structure, good length. Still very much on the primary fruit side of things. This is a very good wine, but needs time to show its best.
15. Mazis-Chamberin Grand Cru, Domaine Philippe Naddef, 2006
Not a producer I'd come across before - this was awesome. Lots and lots of power. This hints strongly at future greatness, but it still tastes so young it's hard to know (plus we'd had a lot of wine by this point - probably not optimal conditions to taste it!). Lots of fruit, powerful palate. Total infanticide!
Sunday 29 July 2012
A Taste of Greece
Vivat Bacchus, 23 July 2012
1. Domaine Gerovassiliou, Malagousia 2011 (Epanomi) Nice - crisp and clean. Mostly stainless steel, although 10% new oak (which I wouldn't have noticed without being told - subtly done). Stone fruit and crisp, refreshing acid.
2. Gaia, "Wild Ferment", Assyrtiko, 2011 (Santorini) I love Assyrtiko from Santorini and this is an excellent example so I very much enjoyed this. I also learnt some good trivia:
- Assyrtiko originally came from Assyria
- Santorini vineyards are some of the oldest in the world. They are phylloxera-free and the vines are not ripped up and replanted. Rather they just take cuttings and replant in the same vineyard.
- No real rain in the vineyards during the growing season. However, there is no irrigation either. All the water during the growing season comes from sea mists depositing moisture on the vines.
This wine had so much volcanic minerality it had a smoky character. An excellent expression of the volcanic terroir of the island. Full flavoured, complex, well balanced. Salty, umami aftertaste. This has seen oak, as well as barrels made from another type of wood (the details of which I now forget).
3. Estate Biblia Chora, "Ovilos" 2010 (Kavala) This was 50% Semillon, 50% Assyrtiko. The wine was aged on its lees so has a little of the yeasty, creamy mouthfeel (cheesy leesy) this can sometimes impart. Slight spice, full bodied, complex. Floral finish. Very elegant, but also powerful. Very good.
4. Gaia, "Notios" Agiorgitiko 2011 (Peloponnese) This wine is from Nemea. It's a light, fruity, juicy and refreshing wine. Not really my style of red wine, but a good example of the type, and actually quite a pleasant style to drink on such a warm day. This has an oak spice finish, but is not oaky in character. Mostly red fruit on the palate.
5. Domaine Gerovassiliou, "Avaton", 2006 (Epanomi) This is quite a rustic wine. More black fruit in character than the previous wine. Also something animal (maybe brett?) Herby, soft tannin. Interesting. This would be great if cheap - no idea of the retail cost.
6. Alpha Estate, Old Vine Xinomavro 2008 (Amyndeo) This has spent 1 year in French oak. Quite red fruit in character - sour cherries in particular. This is very juicy and surprisingly refreshing given that it has plenty of dusty tannin. Definitely a food wine. This, combined with the pale colour, makes me think of an Italian red, perhaps a cross between barolo and lagrein. Apparently, this region is "cool climate", which sounds a little unlikely in Greece.
7. Gaia Estate, Agiorgitiko 2006 (Nemea) This is far more serious than the previous Agiorgitiko - hard to imagine that they are the same producer from the same region and grape. Apparently, this comes from mountain vineyards and this is what gives rise to the difference. The fruit flavour is still more towards the red end of the spectrum. This is juicy but complex. Lots of pepper, wood, savoury spice.. High and dusty tannin. Complex and intense. It's well balanced now but would be improved by pairing with meat or by age (very youthful now despite having 6 years). This will age well - excellent and delicious stuff!
1. Domaine Gerovassiliou, Malagousia 2011 (Epanomi) Nice - crisp and clean. Mostly stainless steel, although 10% new oak (which I wouldn't have noticed without being told - subtly done). Stone fruit and crisp, refreshing acid.
2. Gaia, "Wild Ferment", Assyrtiko, 2011 (Santorini) I love Assyrtiko from Santorini and this is an excellent example so I very much enjoyed this. I also learnt some good trivia:
- Assyrtiko originally came from Assyria
- Santorini vineyards are some of the oldest in the world. They are phylloxera-free and the vines are not ripped up and replanted. Rather they just take cuttings and replant in the same vineyard.
- No real rain in the vineyards during the growing season. However, there is no irrigation either. All the water during the growing season comes from sea mists depositing moisture on the vines.
This wine had so much volcanic minerality it had a smoky character. An excellent expression of the volcanic terroir of the island. Full flavoured, complex, well balanced. Salty, umami aftertaste. This has seen oak, as well as barrels made from another type of wood (the details of which I now forget).
3. Estate Biblia Chora, "Ovilos" 2010 (Kavala) This was 50% Semillon, 50% Assyrtiko. The wine was aged on its lees so has a little of the yeasty, creamy mouthfeel (cheesy leesy) this can sometimes impart. Slight spice, full bodied, complex. Floral finish. Very elegant, but also powerful. Very good.
4. Gaia, "Notios" Agiorgitiko 2011 (Peloponnese) This wine is from Nemea. It's a light, fruity, juicy and refreshing wine. Not really my style of red wine, but a good example of the type, and actually quite a pleasant style to drink on such a warm day. This has an oak spice finish, but is not oaky in character. Mostly red fruit on the palate.
5. Domaine Gerovassiliou, "Avaton", 2006 (Epanomi) This is quite a rustic wine. More black fruit in character than the previous wine. Also something animal (maybe brett?) Herby, soft tannin. Interesting. This would be great if cheap - no idea of the retail cost.
6. Alpha Estate, Old Vine Xinomavro 2008 (Amyndeo) This has spent 1 year in French oak. Quite red fruit in character - sour cherries in particular. This is very juicy and surprisingly refreshing given that it has plenty of dusty tannin. Definitely a food wine. This, combined with the pale colour, makes me think of an Italian red, perhaps a cross between barolo and lagrein. Apparently, this region is "cool climate", which sounds a little unlikely in Greece.
7. Gaia Estate, Agiorgitiko 2006 (Nemea) This is far more serious than the previous Agiorgitiko - hard to imagine that they are the same producer from the same region and grape. Apparently, this comes from mountain vineyards and this is what gives rise to the difference. The fruit flavour is still more towards the red end of the spectrum. This is juicy but complex. Lots of pepper, wood, savoury spice.. High and dusty tannin. Complex and intense. It's well balanced now but would be improved by pairing with meat or by age (very youthful now despite having 6 years). This will age well - excellent and delicious stuff!
Tuesday 29 May 2012
Mas de Daumas Gassac
Monday 19 March
An interesting tasting. The 09 was very pleasant but it felt worryingly as if it had been "modernified". My worry is that this will end up losing the character and idiosyncratic ageing profile from vintages a few years ago. Let's hope not!
1. Rose Frizant
This is a sparkly rose made from Cabernet Sauvignon - and surprised me by being quite nice despite that! Lots of cherry and strawberry. Fine mousse and good acid. A little syrupy perhaps on the finish. Not made from methode Champenois. All things considered, this was pretty good. Not the type of wine I'm likely to buy though.
2. Reserve de Gassac Blanc 2010
90% Viognier, 10% Marsanne
I don't think I would have guessed viognier; however, it seems very believable after I've been told. Floral and with the fruit spectrum closer to stone fruit than anything else. Full bodied, low acid, medium length. Not bad, but not amazing.
3. Mas de Daumas Gassac Blacn 2010
A mix of Viognier, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. I didn't note the percentages.
A huge step up from wine #2. Concentrated, ripe fruit. This almost feels sweet it's so rich and full bodied. Lots of spice. No oak. Very, very good and will age well for many years.
4. Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge 2009
Very high, very fine tannin. Herbal overtones on the nose. Otherwise, typical young red wine smell. On the palate it is well balanced. Plenty of fruit, with some liquorice. Intense, long but still mostly primary character. Very good. Would expect it to improve. Although it tastes like it's been aimed more at the younger drinking style. This is not how I remember young Daumas Gassac from many years ago. Could this just be vintage variation, or has the winemaking style changed to produce a younger drinking wine..?
5. Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge 1995
This smells completely unrecognisable as the same wine. It's very hard to believe that the previous wine will age into this. This smells like a mature Bordeaux. Lots of tertiary flavours. Very acidic. Still plenty of tannin. Lots of flavour concentration. Perfect now. yum yum!
An interesting tasting. The 09 was very pleasant but it felt worryingly as if it had been "modernified". My worry is that this will end up losing the character and idiosyncratic ageing profile from vintages a few years ago. Let's hope not!
1. Rose Frizant
This is a sparkly rose made from Cabernet Sauvignon - and surprised me by being quite nice despite that! Lots of cherry and strawberry. Fine mousse and good acid. A little syrupy perhaps on the finish. Not made from methode Champenois. All things considered, this was pretty good. Not the type of wine I'm likely to buy though.
2. Reserve de Gassac Blanc 2010
90% Viognier, 10% Marsanne
I don't think I would have guessed viognier; however, it seems very believable after I've been told. Floral and with the fruit spectrum closer to stone fruit than anything else. Full bodied, low acid, medium length. Not bad, but not amazing.
3. Mas de Daumas Gassac Blacn 2010
A mix of Viognier, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. I didn't note the percentages.
A huge step up from wine #2. Concentrated, ripe fruit. This almost feels sweet it's so rich and full bodied. Lots of spice. No oak. Very, very good and will age well for many years.
4. Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge 2009
Very high, very fine tannin. Herbal overtones on the nose. Otherwise, typical young red wine smell. On the palate it is well balanced. Plenty of fruit, with some liquorice. Intense, long but still mostly primary character. Very good. Would expect it to improve. Although it tastes like it's been aimed more at the younger drinking style. This is not how I remember young Daumas Gassac from many years ago. Could this just be vintage variation, or has the winemaking style changed to produce a younger drinking wine..?
5. Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge 1995
This smells completely unrecognisable as the same wine. It's very hard to believe that the previous wine will age into this. This smells like a mature Bordeaux. Lots of tertiary flavours. Very acidic. Still plenty of tannin. Lots of flavour concentration. Perfect now. yum yum!
Thursday 24 May 2012
French Harvest Report
Monday 19 Sept 2010
A truly excellent tasting. The format was to compare the same wine from two very close vintages. The vintage variation was fascinating. All the wines made for excellent comparisons. So much so that I'll even overlook the fact that 25% of this tasting was Beaujolais!
1st pair. Chignin Jacquere Gilles Berlioz, Savoie
2009 vs 2010
This was an entirely new area and grape variety to me. Apparently, Savoie is close to Switzerland. The grape variety is Jacquere and is pretty much confined to the region. This was pretty good.
2010 was floral, zesty apple. High acid, crisp and refreshing. Good minerality. Slightly odd finish. The producer prefers this vintage. I preferred the 2009. The 2009 was a darker colour than the 2010. A more noticeable bready character (was this age, or just vintage variation?). Fuller body and more pleasant for drinking now.
2nd pair. Leon Boesch, "Luss" Riesling, Alsace
2008 vs 2009
This is a riesling which has undergone mallolactic fermentation... pretty unusual stuff! Both wines are pretty good. The 2008 was extremely acidic and floral. More of a food wine than the 2009. The 2009 was hotter and riper with more residual sugar. I preferred the more austere 2008.
3rd pair. Daniel Bouland, Chiroubles, Beaujolais
2009 vs 2010
I'm not a fan of Beaujolais so my opinions here will be somewhat biased. The 2010 was pretty rubbish. (ie Watery, fairly typical Beaujolais.) The 2009 definitely surprised to the upside. Deep colour, brambly and earthy.
4th pair. Domaine de Ferrand, Chateauneuf du Pape
2006 vs 2008
2008 was a rainy vintage which might have contributed to this wine having a restrained nose. It pales in comparison with the 2006 which was, quite frankly, fantastic. The 2006 was deep coloured, ripe, rich and full bodied. Made from 95% old-vine grenache this was powerful and elegant. Yum yum!
A truly excellent tasting. The format was to compare the same wine from two very close vintages. The vintage variation was fascinating. All the wines made for excellent comparisons. So much so that I'll even overlook the fact that 25% of this tasting was Beaujolais!
1st pair. Chignin Jacquere Gilles Berlioz, Savoie
2009 vs 2010
This was an entirely new area and grape variety to me. Apparently, Savoie is close to Switzerland. The grape variety is Jacquere and is pretty much confined to the region. This was pretty good.
2010 was floral, zesty apple. High acid, crisp and refreshing. Good minerality. Slightly odd finish. The producer prefers this vintage. I preferred the 2009. The 2009 was a darker colour than the 2010. A more noticeable bready character (was this age, or just vintage variation?). Fuller body and more pleasant for drinking now.
2nd pair. Leon Boesch, "Luss" Riesling, Alsace
2008 vs 2009
This is a riesling which has undergone mallolactic fermentation... pretty unusual stuff! Both wines are pretty good. The 2008 was extremely acidic and floral. More of a food wine than the 2009. The 2009 was hotter and riper with more residual sugar. I preferred the more austere 2008.
3rd pair. Daniel Bouland, Chiroubles, Beaujolais
2009 vs 2010
I'm not a fan of Beaujolais so my opinions here will be somewhat biased. The 2010 was pretty rubbish. (ie Watery, fairly typical Beaujolais.) The 2009 definitely surprised to the upside. Deep colour, brambly and earthy.
4th pair. Domaine de Ferrand, Chateauneuf du Pape
2006 vs 2008
2008 was a rainy vintage which might have contributed to this wine having a restrained nose. It pales in comparison with the 2006 which was, quite frankly, fantastic. The 2006 was deep coloured, ripe, rich and full bodied. Made from 95% old-vine grenache this was powerful and elegant. Yum yum!
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