Greatest Champagnes in the World

Milk & Honey Soho
28 November 2012

An interesting tasting, but ultimately not as impressive as I'd hoped. This was billed as comparing the finest Grandes Marques champagnes against top grower champagnes so I was expecting great things. Sadly, many of the champagnes were not very enjoyable. The recent sparkling wine tasting at the Theatre of Wine was half the price and had a much better average quality of wine. So, whilst I enjoyed the opportunity to taste a lot of these very expensive Champagnes together from an academic interest point of view, I did not enjoy drinking them as much as I was hoping to.

1. Ruinart Blanc de Blancs
Very light and simple. Nothing special. Overpriced.

2. Comte Audoin de Dampierre, Grand Cru
This was actually pretty good. Felt very intense after #1. A somewhat aggressive attack on the mousse. Lots of flavour intensity. More wood in the base wine? This opens up nicely in the glass, giving mushroom, cooked apple and nuts. Very nice.

3. Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage 2000
Bad, as remembered from the last time I had it. The initial taste is good, but it is let down by the chemical, bitter and sour finish.

4. Pol Roger Vintage 2000
Most people had this down as their favourite of the first 4. I actually came down on the side of #2. Classic cracker/biscuit character. Nice and classic, but not mind-blowing.

5. Billot Cuvee Laetitia Grand Cru, Ambonnay
This has quite a lot of power... maybe slightly higher dosage? Improved a lot in the glass. Only problem with this one is the slightly metallic finish, but it's not very striking and just me being picky. Very good overall - one of my favourites.

6. Jacques Selosse Initial Brut NV
More like a wine that happens to be sparkling, rather than a typical sparkling wine. Complex, good finish, lots of flavour intensity. Long, rich and ripe. Almost umami character. Excellent stuff!

7. Dom Perignon Vintage 2003
Very bubbly. Elegant initial taste, but the finish is a little sour and bitter. Stalky/bitter seed tannins? It's too young now, but I'm not sure that the finish will improve. Perhaps they shouldn't have bothered with a 2003?!

8. Krug Grande Cuvee
Good, but not as impressive as when I last had it. Rich and well balanced, but not the stunner I was expecting.