These three wines were tasted (amongst many others!) with Ed and Jordi at a recent post-WSET session.
2000 Grande Cuvee, Domaine de l'Hortus
Domaine de l'Hortus is one of the foremost producers in the Pic St Loup region. This used to be part of the Languedoc region but is now its own appellation.
This was quite pale colour, but full of ripe and rich flavours. Very noticeable herbal nature, which makes sense given that this is total garrigue region. Something meaty too. An aromatic shiraz & grenache blend. This is awesome - it's great now and, despite the pale colour, still has time ahead of it.
2003 Devon Crest, Meinert, Devon Valley, South Africa
This was recommended to me when the wine I ordered in VB London Bridge was not available. It was excellent. I've had this wine from a different, younger vintage before and it was good, but not so amazing that I made a note of it. This time, however, the wine is at peak age so was really striking. So much so that I bought a bottle to this occasion.
Pale colour, lightish body, dusty tannin. This is sour and juicy and refreshing on the palate, but also has plenty of interesting development character. Lots of tobacco and cedar and cigar. Meaty and leathery. An oxidative and slightly austere character. Definitely not one to keep - at its peak now. This was very good.
2010 Sainsbury's Cotes du Rhone
This is made by Chapoutier.
Intense and full bodied. High tannins, high acid. This was seriously intense - almost like an amarone. I definitely didn't guess what we were drinking. For less than £10 a bottle this is a serious bargain.
Wednesday, 19 December 2012
Boekenhoutskloof Tasting
Vivat Bacchus
26 November 2012
1. Semillon 2009
This is old-vine semillon (some vines dating back to the 40s). Smoky and waxy nose. High acid, round and mouthfilling. This has a slight banana aftertaste, but not in the typical rubber/banana SA cliche way, but in a ripe fruit kind of way. This is delicious, long and will age well.
2. Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
This has a noticeable oxidative character. Partly from the bottle age, also presumably from the 27 months in new oak that the Cab Sauv gets. A rich nose: wood, spice and nuts overlaying the black fruit foundation. Some cigar box too. This is developing complexity but still has a juicy, refreshing and smooth feel on the palate so presumably has scope to improve even further. Very good stuff.
3. Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
This has a more austere nose than the 2001. Again, it has the oxidative character. More medium-bodied and thinner feel on the tongue. Still lots of fruit-flavour intensity. Tannins felt more prominent. Good length. Not the best of the wines tonight, but in a typical line-up would still be very impressive.
4. Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Noticeable oak, smoky, dark fruits. So smooth and ripe on the palate. Juicy and refreshing finish. Lots of power. High tannin, but not dominant (only really stands out when the wine is swirled round the front of the gums). Ridiculous length. This is very nice now, but should be seriously excellent in a few years.
5. Syrah 2004
Unlike the Cab Sauv, the Syrah apparently sees no new oak. Ripe black fruit and pepper on the nose. Definitely some oxidative character. Slight rancio aromas - cooked meat, savoury finish. Great length. Oh, how I wish I'd loaded up on this when I was a student and it was cheap.
6. Syrah 2006
Sour and juicy character. Like the 2006 Cab Sauv, this is a more austere wine - apparently a more difficult vintage.
7. Syrah 2009
So fruity and powerful. Ripe black fruit and pepper. Serious ripeness evident on the palate too. Seriously intense and powerful. This is really impressive.
8. Semillon Noble Late Harvest 2004
Amber colour. Fresh apricot and orange on the nose. High acid - not at all cloying. This is very good. It still has lots of flavour intensity. A white pepper finish. Will age very well... sadly there's no more available!
Random trivia:
- The wine labels are hand-torn and applied by hand.
- The same winery also produces the Porcupine Ridge, Wolf Trap and Chocolate Block ranges. The Chocolate Block is also superb.
26 November 2012
1. Semillon 2009
This is old-vine semillon (some vines dating back to the 40s). Smoky and waxy nose. High acid, round and mouthfilling. This has a slight banana aftertaste, but not in the typical rubber/banana SA cliche way, but in a ripe fruit kind of way. This is delicious, long and will age well.
2. Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
This has a noticeable oxidative character. Partly from the bottle age, also presumably from the 27 months in new oak that the Cab Sauv gets. A rich nose: wood, spice and nuts overlaying the black fruit foundation. Some cigar box too. This is developing complexity but still has a juicy, refreshing and smooth feel on the palate so presumably has scope to improve even further. Very good stuff.
3. Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
This has a more austere nose than the 2001. Again, it has the oxidative character. More medium-bodied and thinner feel on the tongue. Still lots of fruit-flavour intensity. Tannins felt more prominent. Good length. Not the best of the wines tonight, but in a typical line-up would still be very impressive.
4. Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Noticeable oak, smoky, dark fruits. So smooth and ripe on the palate. Juicy and refreshing finish. Lots of power. High tannin, but not dominant (only really stands out when the wine is swirled round the front of the gums). Ridiculous length. This is very nice now, but should be seriously excellent in a few years.
5. Syrah 2004
Unlike the Cab Sauv, the Syrah apparently sees no new oak. Ripe black fruit and pepper on the nose. Definitely some oxidative character. Slight rancio aromas - cooked meat, savoury finish. Great length. Oh, how I wish I'd loaded up on this when I was a student and it was cheap.
6. Syrah 2006
Sour and juicy character. Like the 2006 Cab Sauv, this is a more austere wine - apparently a more difficult vintage.
7. Syrah 2009
So fruity and powerful. Ripe black fruit and pepper. Serious ripeness evident on the palate too. Seriously intense and powerful. This is really impressive.
8. Semillon Noble Late Harvest 2004
Amber colour. Fresh apricot and orange on the nose. High acid - not at all cloying. This is very good. It still has lots of flavour intensity. A white pepper finish. Will age very well... sadly there's no more available!
Random trivia:
- The wine labels are hand-torn and applied by hand.
- The same winery also produces the Porcupine Ridge, Wolf Trap and Chocolate Block ranges. The Chocolate Block is also superb.
Greatest Champagnes in the World
Milk & Honey Soho
28 November 2012
An interesting tasting, but ultimately not as impressive as I'd hoped. This was billed as comparing the finest Grandes Marques champagnes against top grower champagnes so I was expecting great things. Sadly, many of the champagnes were not very enjoyable. The recent sparkling wine tasting at the Theatre of Wine was half the price and had a much better average quality of wine. So, whilst I enjoyed the opportunity to taste a lot of these very expensive Champagnes together from an academic interest point of view, I did not enjoy drinking them as much as I was hoping to.
1. Ruinart Blanc de Blancs
Very light and simple. Nothing special. Overpriced.
2. Comte Audoin de Dampierre, Grand Cru
This was actually pretty good. Felt very intense after #1. A somewhat aggressive attack on the mousse. Lots of flavour intensity. More wood in the base wine? This opens up nicely in the glass, giving mushroom, cooked apple and nuts. Very nice.
3. Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage 2000
Bad, as remembered from the last time I had it. The initial taste is good, but it is let down by the chemical, bitter and sour finish.
4. Pol Roger Vintage 2000
Most people had this down as their favourite of the first 4. I actually came down on the side of #2. Classic cracker/biscuit character. Nice and classic, but not mind-blowing.
5. Billot Cuvee Laetitia Grand Cru, Ambonnay
This has quite a lot of power... maybe slightly higher dosage? Improved a lot in the glass. Only problem with this one is the slightly metallic finish, but it's not very striking and just me being picky. Very good overall - one of my favourites.
6. Jacques Selosse Initial Brut NV
More like a wine that happens to be sparkling, rather than a typical sparkling wine. Complex, good finish, lots of flavour intensity. Long, rich and ripe. Almost umami character. Excellent stuff!
7. Dom Perignon Vintage 2003
Very bubbly. Elegant initial taste, but the finish is a little sour and bitter. Stalky/bitter seed tannins? It's too young now, but I'm not sure that the finish will improve. Perhaps they shouldn't have bothered with a 2003?!
8. Krug Grande Cuvee
Good, but not as impressive as when I last had it. Rich and well balanced, but not the stunner I was expecting.
28 November 2012
An interesting tasting, but ultimately not as impressive as I'd hoped. This was billed as comparing the finest Grandes Marques champagnes against top grower champagnes so I was expecting great things. Sadly, many of the champagnes were not very enjoyable. The recent sparkling wine tasting at the Theatre of Wine was half the price and had a much better average quality of wine. So, whilst I enjoyed the opportunity to taste a lot of these very expensive Champagnes together from an academic interest point of view, I did not enjoy drinking them as much as I was hoping to.
1. Ruinart Blanc de Blancs
Very light and simple. Nothing special. Overpriced.
2. Comte Audoin de Dampierre, Grand Cru
This was actually pretty good. Felt very intense after #1. A somewhat aggressive attack on the mousse. Lots of flavour intensity. More wood in the base wine? This opens up nicely in the glass, giving mushroom, cooked apple and nuts. Very nice.
3. Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage 2000
Bad, as remembered from the last time I had it. The initial taste is good, but it is let down by the chemical, bitter and sour finish.
4. Pol Roger Vintage 2000
Most people had this down as their favourite of the first 4. I actually came down on the side of #2. Classic cracker/biscuit character. Nice and classic, but not mind-blowing.
5. Billot Cuvee Laetitia Grand Cru, Ambonnay
This has quite a lot of power... maybe slightly higher dosage? Improved a lot in the glass. Only problem with this one is the slightly metallic finish, but it's not very striking and just me being picky. Very good overall - one of my favourites.
6. Jacques Selosse Initial Brut NV
More like a wine that happens to be sparkling, rather than a typical sparkling wine. Complex, good finish, lots of flavour intensity. Long, rich and ripe. Almost umami character. Excellent stuff!
7. Dom Perignon Vintage 2003
Very bubbly. Elegant initial taste, but the finish is a little sour and bitter. Stalky/bitter seed tannins? It's too young now, but I'm not sure that the finish will improve. Perhaps they shouldn't have bothered with a 2003?!
8. Krug Grande Cuvee
Good, but not as impressive as when I last had it. Rich and well balanced, but not the stunner I was expecting.
Blind Tasting with Ed and Jordi
This was the final week's WSET class for Ed and Jordi so they wanted to have a big tasting as "practice" for the exam. However, by the end there was quite a lot of drinking going on so the tasting notes deteriorate towards the end! All the wines were tasted blind... which explains the unusual order in which the wines were tasted. However, you knew which number your wine was so wines 2 and 3 were tasted non-blind for me.
1. Chateauneuf du Pape, Domaine de l'Arnesque. (Vintage not noted)
Pale colour (some had it down as PN). Black cherry on the nose. Ripe fruit. High acid and juicy character on the palate. Young, but developing. Dusty tannins. I guessed New World Grenache, so got the dominant grape right. However, it could have gone either way. I went against PN since I felt the tannins were too noticeable and dusty. However, there was also something which Ed was convinced what carbonic maceration so I nearly guessed a cheap S. France Cinsault where part of the wine has undergone carbonic maceration. This shows the randomness of blind tasting!
2. Cartoixa, Scala Dei, Priorat 2006
This was one of my wines so not tasted blind
Opaque and black. Intense nose of vanilla and black fruit. Some oxidative character. Noticeable wood. High tannin, but still has a very soft and polished mouthfeel - tannins felt in balance with the acid. This was drunk with a plate of coppa (head cheese) - the pairing worked well. Some earthy, tobacco notes. Developing. Opened up amazingly in the glass, which indicates that it should probably improve for many years - particularly since this had been double-decanted a couple of hours prior to the tasting. Jordi's initial guess was that this was a priorat, so he was bang on. However, he talked himself out of it in the end and went for something else... a lesson in trusting your instincts.
3. Jim Barry, McRae Wood Shiraz, 2006
This was one of my wines so not tasted blind
Opaque, inky black. Ripe black fruit - youthful nose. I felt that there was definitely noticeable black pepper, but nobody else identified this... which probably explains why it wasn't correctly identified as a Shiraz (lots of people thought some sort of Cabernet-dominated blend). The wine is lifted and aromatic, something like menthol pretty striking on the nose. Noticeable oak. This is very full bodied. High acid and tannin, but balanced. Tastes very. very young. Liquorice aftertaste. Minerality on finish. Superb.
4. Domaine Gayda, Grenache
Insubstantial, not sure how much of this was because the previous wine overshadowed it in body so much or whether it was just how the wine tastes. Light body. Smells of cherry and some banana. Very high acid. Very sour finish. I thought this was a beaujolais, which I dislike a lot. Apparently this is a grenache. Not a fan of this one either way.
5. Kaiken Ultra Malbec 2009
I thought I'd clearly identified black pepper on the nose for this one, so I talked myself into calling this a shiraz. It was actually a malbec! Ripe black fruit. Black pepper. Dusty tannin, juicy acid. Intense palate. Floral/violet notes on the nose. A little austere finish. Very nice.
6. Vina Alberdi Rioja Reserva 2006
"Meaty, oxidative. Probably a rioja." Finally I got one right!
7. Weingut Wintner Riesling Trocken 2006
"Definitely a riesling. Slight spritz. Sour apple. Very acidic. Austrian Riesling?"
No, actually from Rheinhessen. Got the grape right though.
1. Chateauneuf du Pape, Domaine de l'Arnesque. (Vintage not noted)
Pale colour (some had it down as PN). Black cherry on the nose. Ripe fruit. High acid and juicy character on the palate. Young, but developing. Dusty tannins. I guessed New World Grenache, so got the dominant grape right. However, it could have gone either way. I went against PN since I felt the tannins were too noticeable and dusty. However, there was also something which Ed was convinced what carbonic maceration so I nearly guessed a cheap S. France Cinsault where part of the wine has undergone carbonic maceration. This shows the randomness of blind tasting!
2. Cartoixa, Scala Dei, Priorat 2006
This was one of my wines so not tasted blind
Opaque and black. Intense nose of vanilla and black fruit. Some oxidative character. Noticeable wood. High tannin, but still has a very soft and polished mouthfeel - tannins felt in balance with the acid. This was drunk with a plate of coppa (head cheese) - the pairing worked well. Some earthy, tobacco notes. Developing. Opened up amazingly in the glass, which indicates that it should probably improve for many years - particularly since this had been double-decanted a couple of hours prior to the tasting. Jordi's initial guess was that this was a priorat, so he was bang on. However, he talked himself out of it in the end and went for something else... a lesson in trusting your instincts.
3. Jim Barry, McRae Wood Shiraz, 2006
This was one of my wines so not tasted blind
Opaque, inky black. Ripe black fruit - youthful nose. I felt that there was definitely noticeable black pepper, but nobody else identified this... which probably explains why it wasn't correctly identified as a Shiraz (lots of people thought some sort of Cabernet-dominated blend). The wine is lifted and aromatic, something like menthol pretty striking on the nose. Noticeable oak. This is very full bodied. High acid and tannin, but balanced. Tastes very. very young. Liquorice aftertaste. Minerality on finish. Superb.
4. Domaine Gayda, Grenache
Insubstantial, not sure how much of this was because the previous wine overshadowed it in body so much or whether it was just how the wine tastes. Light body. Smells of cherry and some banana. Very high acid. Very sour finish. I thought this was a beaujolais, which I dislike a lot. Apparently this is a grenache. Not a fan of this one either way.
5. Kaiken Ultra Malbec 2009
I thought I'd clearly identified black pepper on the nose for this one, so I talked myself into calling this a shiraz. It was actually a malbec! Ripe black fruit. Black pepper. Dusty tannin, juicy acid. Intense palate. Floral/violet notes on the nose. A little austere finish. Very nice.
6. Vina Alberdi Rioja Reserva 2006
"Meaty, oxidative. Probably a rioja." Finally I got one right!
7. Weingut Wintner Riesling Trocken 2006
"Definitely a riesling. Slight spritz. Sour apple. Very acidic. Austrian Riesling?"
No, actually from Rheinhessen. Got the grape right though.
Sunday, 2 December 2012
Aromatic Reds
Theatre of Wine
Thursday 22 Nov
1. Foillard Morgon 2010, France
Very pale. Cherry aroma, some wood. Light body, very high and prominent acid. Low tannin. Long. Almost like a good PN. Not really my thing though. £16.50
2. Thymiopoulos Jeunes Vignes 2011
This is their entry-level Xinomavro. They also have a more complex one which I must look out for. This is a deeper red colour than the previous wine (quite black). Raspberry jam very prominent on the nose, also violets. Very ripe fruit. Palate feels young and refreshing. Medium body. High acid. An almost porty character on the nose, but nothing like that on the palate. Surprisingly high tannin. This is good, easy to drink and a crowd pleaser. A good price point too at £11.70.
3. Dalzocchio Pinor Nero 2008
Amazing bouquet. Cooked fruit, floral, rich. This is seriously impressive stuff. Complex, long and well balanced. High acid, mild tannin. Some vegetal/barnyard complexity but still very easy and enjoyable. This was great. Everyone in the room loved this. £26
4. Guillaume Collection Reservee Pinot Noir 2006
Complex, forest floor aromas. Lots of red fruit underneath. More powerful nose than the previous wine, but a much more austere palate. Basically not enough fruit left on the palate to balance out the secondary characters. Acidity is particularly noticeable on the finish (which is a little sour). OK, but at £26 a bottle I'd much rather have the previous wine.
5. Castro Ventosa el Castro del Valtuille Barrica Bierzo 2009
Silky mouthfeel. A little closed on the nose. Some black fruit, quite dark and brooding character. This is nice but nonedescript. I like it but it's not particularly aromatic - didn't really fit in the tasting.
6. Fay Valtellina 'Il Glicine' Superiore Sassella 2009
This wine is from Lombardy. Ripe red fruit. Prunes and dried fruits. High acid, relatively light body. Good length, refreshing, silky and delicate. This is good, interesting and a crowd pleaser, but a little too expensive given the competition so far at this price point £23.50
7. Allessandro Veglio Langhe Nebbiolo 2009
Deep colour. Rich and ripe nose with smoky overtones. Silky mouthfeel. Refreshing acid. Very pleasant but pales in comparison to the much more serious wine which followed (same grape, same producer). £15.50
8. Allessandro Veglio Barolo Gattera 2008
Complex, smoky and spicy. This has lots of black fruit and something like beeswax. Licquorice on the palate. This is a superb. £35.80
9. Jim Barry McCrae Wood Shiraz 2006
Deep and opaque. Floral, lifted, black fruit, oak and black pepper. Juicy black fruit on the palate. Very high tannin. Intense, full bodied. Powerful, with serious fruit intensity. Great stuff £26.80
10. Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape Vielles Vignes 1997
Aged, vegetal nature. Basically smells like an old red wine. Nice, ripe, mouthfilling and complex. Good, but overpriced at £53 per bottle.
11. Au Bon Climat Isabelle 2009
Very pale colour. Ripe red fruit and nutty aromas on nose. Maybe hazelnut. This is very pleasant and will develop nicely.
Thursday 22 Nov
1. Foillard Morgon 2010, France
Very pale. Cherry aroma, some wood. Light body, very high and prominent acid. Low tannin. Long. Almost like a good PN. Not really my thing though. £16.50
2. Thymiopoulos Jeunes Vignes 2011
This is their entry-level Xinomavro. They also have a more complex one which I must look out for. This is a deeper red colour than the previous wine (quite black). Raspberry jam very prominent on the nose, also violets. Very ripe fruit. Palate feels young and refreshing. Medium body. High acid. An almost porty character on the nose, but nothing like that on the palate. Surprisingly high tannin. This is good, easy to drink and a crowd pleaser. A good price point too at £11.70.
3. Dalzocchio Pinor Nero 2008
Amazing bouquet. Cooked fruit, floral, rich. This is seriously impressive stuff. Complex, long and well balanced. High acid, mild tannin. Some vegetal/barnyard complexity but still very easy and enjoyable. This was great. Everyone in the room loved this. £26
4. Guillaume Collection Reservee Pinot Noir 2006
Complex, forest floor aromas. Lots of red fruit underneath. More powerful nose than the previous wine, but a much more austere palate. Basically not enough fruit left on the palate to balance out the secondary characters. Acidity is particularly noticeable on the finish (which is a little sour). OK, but at £26 a bottle I'd much rather have the previous wine.
5. Castro Ventosa el Castro del Valtuille Barrica Bierzo 2009
Silky mouthfeel. A little closed on the nose. Some black fruit, quite dark and brooding character. This is nice but nonedescript. I like it but it's not particularly aromatic - didn't really fit in the tasting.
6. Fay Valtellina 'Il Glicine' Superiore Sassella 2009
This wine is from Lombardy. Ripe red fruit. Prunes and dried fruits. High acid, relatively light body. Good length, refreshing, silky and delicate. This is good, interesting and a crowd pleaser, but a little too expensive given the competition so far at this price point £23.50
7. Allessandro Veglio Langhe Nebbiolo 2009
Deep colour. Rich and ripe nose with smoky overtones. Silky mouthfeel. Refreshing acid. Very pleasant but pales in comparison to the much more serious wine which followed (same grape, same producer). £15.50
8. Allessandro Veglio Barolo Gattera 2008
Complex, smoky and spicy. This has lots of black fruit and something like beeswax. Licquorice on the palate. This is a superb. £35.80
9. Jim Barry McCrae Wood Shiraz 2006
Deep and opaque. Floral, lifted, black fruit, oak and black pepper. Juicy black fruit on the palate. Very high tannin. Intense, full bodied. Powerful, with serious fruit intensity. Great stuff £26.80
10. Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape Vielles Vignes 1997
Aged, vegetal nature. Basically smells like an old red wine. Nice, ripe, mouthfilling and complex. Good, but overpriced at £53 per bottle.
11. Au Bon Climat Isabelle 2009
Very pale colour. Ripe red fruit and nutty aromas on nose. Maybe hazelnut. This is very pleasant and will develop nicely.
Fine Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Theatre of Wine
8 Nov 2012
1. Domaine Huet Vouvray 2007 Petillant, Loire
Petillant implies lower pressure than Champagne. This has a cooked apple character somewhat redolant of apple pie. Good, crisp acidity. Soft and prickly bubbles, low pressure. Long. Cooked apple flavour lasts until the end. This is very good and can apparently age well. £22.70
2. Gaston Chiquet Selection Brut, NV, Dizy
Custard, bread. Very intense fruity palate. Fine mousse. Very buttery. Something savoury on the nose and finish. Extremely drinkable. Good length. This is 60% PN from a grower producer. Good stuff. £26.00
3. Ridgeview Bloomsbury 2010, East Sussex
This seems popular with many people but I'm not a huge fan. It's been a while since I had either this or the Nyetimber (neither are close to good value any more), but my memory of the Nyetimber is much better than this. It's very restrained - nothing bad about it, but nothing that particularly stands out. Very fine mousse. The initial attack fades quickly and a sour note remains on the finish. OK, but definitely trading with a novelty-value English premium. (Having said that, it opens up nicely in the glass and works very well with the cheese). £22.50
4. Edoardo Miroglio Brut 2007, Bulgaria
Good. Very much a New World character: intense initial hit of fruit, ripe and easy character. This is good now, but felt out of balance after going back to it after the following wine. $15.80
5. Guillaume La Flute Enchantee, France
Spectacular value. Very ripe (almost cooked) fruit character. This has serious power. This was paired with a Comte cheese - stood up to it perfectly. This opened up more in the glass and even coped with being tasted again after the Mesnil (number 8). Cracking stuff for the price, but not as subtle as the proper stuff which came later in the tasting. £12!
6. Recaredo Brut Nature 2007, Alt Penedes
Almost tea-like. Bitter oils. Almonds. Plenty of length and intense flavour. Good, lots of acid and worked well with the charcuterie. Expensive for an entry level cava, and not worth the price, but very pleasant nonetheless. £24.20
7. Castel Noarna, Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Trentino
The winery is located in a 15th century castle - sounds like one to visit if I'm ever in the area.
A meaty nose overlaying acidic fruit (lime & pineapple). The pineapple is particularly noticeable on the palate, much more clearly than on the nose. Very sour finish (almost grapefruit). Slight funk. Crisp acidity. Good, but unusual. £22.00
8. Pierre Peters, Grand Cru Cuvee Speciale, Les Chetillons, 2002, Mesnil
Crackers & butter on the nose. MALO intensity. This has real flavour intensity and umami on the palate. A fine mousse. Structure - lots of acidity. However, the buttery notes offset the intense acid making it less austere. This has great length and serious power. Somewhat like marmite - not just because both have umami, but also because it seems to polarise people - I liked it! £63.00
9. Champagne Vilmart Cuvee NV
Rose, 90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay
Strawberry and raspberry aroma profile. Very fine mousse. Elegant rather than powerful. A meaty aroma once it opens up. The flavour intensity dips, making you think it's going to be a little short, but then comes back and lasts for quite a while. Complex, good and unusual. Slightly let down by bitterness on the finish. £49.00
10. Jacques Selosse, Rose Grand Cru, Brut, Avize
This is made with lees stirring - real care and attention paid to the quality of the base wine. Noticeable wood. Red fruit. Lots of subtle flavours on the nose. Full bodied, mineralic. Like a sparkling "wine" rather than a typical "sparkling wine". Excellent. £110.50
11. Jacques Selosse, Initial, Grand Cru, Brut, Avize
This is a blanc de blanc where the base wine is aged using a solera system! A somewhat nutty nose. Exploding mousse - almost feels as though it turns to foam in the mouth. Soft mouthfeel, but great power and flavour intensity. Lemon, orange, vanilla, oak. Crisp acidity. High acid, but plenty of fruit so it's not immediately noticeable. Very, very good stuff. £93.00
Random notes:
- Petit Meslier, Arbanne, Pinot Blanc are 3 other, basically irrelevant grape varieties also allowed in Champagne.
- Some sparkling wine is produced by the "ancestral method". This is a new one on me. Apparently made like a bottle-conditioned beer. The yeast goes dormant during the fermentation process but restarts once it's bottled.
- Second fermentation for Champagne usually done under a crown cap. This is because if it were closed by a cork in this period it would double the chances of being contaminated by cork taint.
8 Nov 2012
1. Domaine Huet Vouvray 2007 Petillant, Loire
Petillant implies lower pressure than Champagne. This has a cooked apple character somewhat redolant of apple pie. Good, crisp acidity. Soft and prickly bubbles, low pressure. Long. Cooked apple flavour lasts until the end. This is very good and can apparently age well. £22.70
2. Gaston Chiquet Selection Brut, NV, Dizy
Custard, bread. Very intense fruity palate. Fine mousse. Very buttery. Something savoury on the nose and finish. Extremely drinkable. Good length. This is 60% PN from a grower producer. Good stuff. £26.00
3. Ridgeview Bloomsbury 2010, East Sussex
This seems popular with many people but I'm not a huge fan. It's been a while since I had either this or the Nyetimber (neither are close to good value any more), but my memory of the Nyetimber is much better than this. It's very restrained - nothing bad about it, but nothing that particularly stands out. Very fine mousse. The initial attack fades quickly and a sour note remains on the finish. OK, but definitely trading with a novelty-value English premium. (Having said that, it opens up nicely in the glass and works very well with the cheese). £22.50
4. Edoardo Miroglio Brut 2007, Bulgaria
Good. Very much a New World character: intense initial hit of fruit, ripe and easy character. This is good now, but felt out of balance after going back to it after the following wine. $15.80
5. Guillaume La Flute Enchantee, France
Spectacular value. Very ripe (almost cooked) fruit character. This has serious power. This was paired with a Comte cheese - stood up to it perfectly. This opened up more in the glass and even coped with being tasted again after the Mesnil (number 8). Cracking stuff for the price, but not as subtle as the proper stuff which came later in the tasting. £12!
6. Recaredo Brut Nature 2007, Alt Penedes
Almost tea-like. Bitter oils. Almonds. Plenty of length and intense flavour. Good, lots of acid and worked well with the charcuterie. Expensive for an entry level cava, and not worth the price, but very pleasant nonetheless. £24.20
7. Castel Noarna, Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Trentino
The winery is located in a 15th century castle - sounds like one to visit if I'm ever in the area.
A meaty nose overlaying acidic fruit (lime & pineapple). The pineapple is particularly noticeable on the palate, much more clearly than on the nose. Very sour finish (almost grapefruit). Slight funk. Crisp acidity. Good, but unusual. £22.00
8. Pierre Peters, Grand Cru Cuvee Speciale, Les Chetillons, 2002, Mesnil
Crackers & butter on the nose. MALO intensity. This has real flavour intensity and umami on the palate. A fine mousse. Structure - lots of acidity. However, the buttery notes offset the intense acid making it less austere. This has great length and serious power. Somewhat like marmite - not just because both have umami, but also because it seems to polarise people - I liked it! £63.00
9. Champagne Vilmart Cuvee NV
Rose, 90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay
Strawberry and raspberry aroma profile. Very fine mousse. Elegant rather than powerful. A meaty aroma once it opens up. The flavour intensity dips, making you think it's going to be a little short, but then comes back and lasts for quite a while. Complex, good and unusual. Slightly let down by bitterness on the finish. £49.00
10. Jacques Selosse, Rose Grand Cru, Brut, Avize
This is made with lees stirring - real care and attention paid to the quality of the base wine. Noticeable wood. Red fruit. Lots of subtle flavours on the nose. Full bodied, mineralic. Like a sparkling "wine" rather than a typical "sparkling wine". Excellent. £110.50
11. Jacques Selosse, Initial, Grand Cru, Brut, Avize
This is a blanc de blanc where the base wine is aged using a solera system! A somewhat nutty nose. Exploding mousse - almost feels as though it turns to foam in the mouth. Soft mouthfeel, but great power and flavour intensity. Lemon, orange, vanilla, oak. Crisp acidity. High acid, but plenty of fruit so it's not immediately noticeable. Very, very good stuff. £93.00
Random notes:
- Petit Meslier, Arbanne, Pinot Blanc are 3 other, basically irrelevant grape varieties also allowed in Champagne.
- Some sparkling wine is produced by the "ancestral method". This is a new one on me. Apparently made like a bottle-conditioned beer. The yeast goes dormant during the fermentation process but restarts once it's bottled.
- Second fermentation for Champagne usually done under a crown cap. This is because if it were closed by a cork in this period it would double the chances of being contaminated by cork taint.
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