Mature Red Burgundy

Tuesday 24 November 2009
Wine and Dine Society

Another ridiculous one from the Wine and Dine people. Red Burgundy starting in 1964 and getting older! Burgundy used to be fortified with all kinds of stronger wine before the 70s and as a result of this it can often age much better than today's wines would.

1. 1964 Chambolle Musigny, Corney and Barrow
Meaty and earthy. Not much fruit. Past its best but still drinkable. Impressive given its age (apart from when it is compared to some of the ancient wines below).

2. 1961 Clos Vougeot, Innes Smith
Sweet, jammy fruit on nose, which is frankly astonishing given the age. Smoke and floral note also, particularly on the finish. Was probably fortified. Something on the nose is redolent of a tawny port.

3. 1955 Volnay Hospice, Cuvee Blondeau
Meaty, smoky, pepper, mushroom. Particularly on the finish.

4. 1955 Charmes Chambertin, Harvey's of Bristol
Faulty. Smells dank.

5. 1953 Clos Vougeot, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze
Very aromatic. Floral, sweet spice. Fades a little quickly on the mid-palate but finishes strongly.

6. 1952 Chambolle Musigny, Marx and Salmon
Meaty and concentrated. Like a stock. Cherries on the nose. Surprising grip. Must have been doped with wines from the South of France.

7. 1937 Beaune, Reserve du Chateau, Domaine Louis Lavirotte et fils
Lots of tannin, very dark. Does that sound like a 70+ year old Burgundy to you? Even by the standards of wines which have come through the Wine and Dine time machine, this is ridiculous. Probably fraud. There are sharp green tannins which doesn't seem plausible for a very old wine.

8. 1919 Volnay, Sichel
This is like a cross between a vintage port and a tawny port. Smells sweet with jammy fruit. Some oxidized character - particularly on the mid-palate. Completely mental! Complex. Weird. I like it.