Sunday, 8 November 2009

Champagne Ployez-Jacquemart

This was definitely the visit of the holiday. We ended up staying at their guest house on the Thursday night and then coming for a tasting on Friday afternoon. So on Thursday night we did not know what a gold-mine of champagne we were sleeping on top of.

For future reference, the "mini-bar" at the guest house is simply a fridge full of the Ployez-Jacquemart champagnes all sold at cellar-door prices. Tragically, this minibar went untroubled by our group on the Thursday night.

Ployez-Jacquemart are Negociants, buying in at least some of their grapes. However, the production is quite small at around 130k bottles per year. Most of the base wine undergoes MALO with exception of the Special Cuvee (Cuvee Liesse d'Harbonville). This special cuvee is aged in oak barrels which have been used 3 times before in Burgundy. The base wine spends 3-months in barrel and then the champagne is aged for 10-years in the cellar. Not undergoing MALO produces champagnes which require more age before drinking well. Dosage is low too at around 3-5 g of sugar per litre of wine.

Since the special cuvee ages for a long time before release, the wines are riddled a few years prior to release and the wines are stored sur-pointe. This minimizes the contact between the dead yeast and the wine allowing the wine to age without the yeast autolysis flavour overwhelming the other flavours in the wine.
Ployez,Champagne

Visit
This was a great visit. They have quite extensive cellars and gave a very informative and interesting tour. A combination of the quality of the wine (see below) and the excellent tour mean that I'd definitely recommend this place to anyone.
Ployez,Champagne

The Wine
1. Selection Rose

Delicate pink colour. No bitterness (a common complaint of mine about rose). Fine mousse with intense red fruit. Good length with a savoury finish. The red wine spent a year in oak before assemblage. Well balanced. This is the best rose so far. Very good.

2. 2000 Vintage
No oak. Very refined but still expressive and exuberant. Lemon, creamy truffle nose. Something almost cheesy. Full bodied on the palate. Intense lemon curd and biscuit flavour. Great length. Best wine so far.

3. Cuvee Liesse d'Harbonville 1998
The 2000 vintage rapidly lost the crown of best wine so far to this, the very next wine tasted. This was a truly impressive Champagne. This has such intensity of flavour and length that after just one sip it is possible to clearly taste it for a long time afterwards.

The aromas start off being quite earthy and become more lemony with time in the glass. Full bodied and very intense flavour on the palate. Great balance. The oak influence is subtle and well integrated. This would be an excellent champagne to pair with food. It's so powerful that it is what I imagine a great white burgundy would taste like were it a sparkling wine. The base wine did not undergo MALO but the wine still tastes quite creamy.

I really, really liked this one. Fantastic.

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