Tuesday 22 September 2009

Bollinger

Bollinger Tasting
Vivat Bacchus, 7 September


Bollinger is still family owned and family run - quite an achievement for such a large, powerful brand. 60% of the grapes they use are sourced from vineyards which they own. This is unusual - many large producers source the majority of their grapes from small growers.

Bollinger is a Pinot Noir driven champagne. They still have two vineyards which have never been infested with Phylloxera. They are walled vineyards and this appears to keep the nasty insects out, although it's presumably a matter of time until this all ends in tears.

All wines which are made from grand cru grapes undergo the primary fermentation in old oak. Bollinger claim to employ the only full-time cooper in the Champagne region. All reserve wines are stored in magnum, with a cork closure.

Tasting Notes
1. Bollinger Brut NV
Lemon, butter and apple. Fine mousse, high acid. Dry, with good length and a smooth finish, although tastes a little sour after about 10 seconds. Otherwise well balanced.

2. Bollinger Rose NV
A pale salmon pink colour. Red fruit, particularly raspberries (slightly jammy). Dry, high acid, very juicy and refreshing. Like a ripe berry.

3. Bollinger La Grande Annee 2000
Cheese (eg a creamy brie) and crackers. Medium body, smooth, lemony. Excellent length and a fine mousse. Good stuff!

4. Bollinger La Grande Annee Rose 2002
Surprisingly good considering that Madame Bollinger was very much against Rose champagnes. Lots of raspberries, quite a lot of body and smooth. Good, but overpriced.

5. Bollinger La Cote aux Enfants Rouge 2002
Quite a deep colour for a Pinot Noir, but smells just like a PN should. Red cherry, subtle oak influence (3-5 years). Some tannin. Great length. Not £65 worth of red wine but worth trying for the novelty, or if someone else is paying!

In conclusion, the Roses and the Red are both very good, but do not justify the extra money (but that's not really the point when it comes to Champagne is it?!)

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