Tuesday 10th March 2009
This miniature version of the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter Grand Tastings was held in the opulent environment of the Institute of Directors HQ on Pall Mall, showcasing the wines of the Veneto region of Italy. I was not particularly familiar with this area, apart from knowing it contained Valpolicella and Soave – I didn’t even realise it included Prosecco.
Sadly, I don’t qualify for access to the trade session in the afternoon so had to settle for the public tasting (a bargain at £15) between 6 and 9 pm. As I arrived at 6:30, I would clearly barely be able to scratch the surface of the 38 varied producer stalls present!
I decided to kick off in the predictable manner with some sparkling wine, meaning Prosecco in this case (made from the Prosecco grape variety). Some variety was available, with varying degrees of dryness, from examples hinting at Champagne to much fruitier samples. A rosé containing some Chardonnay and Rabosao (local red variety, fermented separately and blended before the second fermentation) was particularly good – I’m always saddened but not surprised that Chardonnay is present in the best sparklers from almost any region!
Next on to some whites, mostly from the Garganega grape including some Soave Classico. Generally rather neutral; the best examples used a little oak and had pleasant but not remarkable complexity. The recioto/passito sweet wines made by rasining these grapes were remarkably good, with hints of Tokaji and great balance – to my sweet tooth, anyhow.
At this stage I noticed the special guest stall representing a number of Chianti Classico producers, and tried a few samples with an eye to this Friday’s Tuscan tasting and a summer holiday to Chianti itself. The difference between “modern/international” and “traditional” styles was very noticeable – you didn’t even have to taste them to tell, the colour was a reliable guide! I had good examples of both, generally with plenty of tannins in the young examples, especially an as-yet unreleased 2006 Riserva barrel sample. Ouch! The highlight was a more mature Riserva in the traditional style, with farmyard and cherry notes that put me in mind of a Pinot Noir rather than a Sangiovese (or the Bordeaux feel of the modern style Chiantis I tried).
A quick stop at the stand from Asti (sadly no Barolos on show from their region) refreshed my palette with some enjoyable fizzy pop. Finally I went to tackle the Veneto reds – Valpolicella Classicos and Amarones. But time had been slipping away, and the Amarones in particular had been largely drunk dry by more single-minded drinkers. How unfair! That’s like heading straight for the port before dinner. The examples I did try were remarkably meaty or herbaceous – I expected the dominant characteristics to be floral and ripe, but there was a deep, savoury edge to them. There were, of course, also plenty of cherry aromas and flavours, as one generally expects from Italy. Highly enjoyable: I couldn’t work out whether they would be enhanced by being accompanied by meat, or would stand best alone. I wish I’d had a chance to try more!
Next time I’m at an Italian event, I will hurriedly skip over the generally rather forgettable whites and go straight for the striking reds, despite how uncivilised the idea seems. The decent sparkling wines could fill a very useful role as palette cleansers between the food-hungry tannins of the top reds, rather than simply aperitifs. I certainly don’t regret my diversion to the Chianti stand though, and ironically my enthusiasm for that region was the strongest impression I took away from the event. Bring on Friday…
41 wines tasted
Best red:
Monsanto, Il Poggio Riserva 2004 Chianti Classico (Sangiovese)
Best VENETIAN red:
Novaia, Amarone della Valpolicella DOC Classico “Corte Vaona” 2004 (Cortese etc)
Best dry white:
Giovanni Menti, Monte del Cuca, Gambellara DOC Classio 2006 (Garganega)
Best sweet white:
Ca’ Lustra, Colli Euganei, Fior d’Arancio Passito 2007 (Yellow Moscato)
Most unusual sparkling:
Giovanni Menti, Onomorto, Monti Lessini DOC Durello Spumate BrutMillesimato 2006
Salty, seafood, smoky aroma and flavours – reminiscent of a Manzanilla sherry. High acid; long tight finish. Unlike any other bubbly I’ve ever tasted
No comments:
Post a Comment