Mas de Daumas Gassac

Monday 19 March

An interesting tasting. The 09 was very pleasant but it felt worryingly as if it had been "modernified". My worry is that this will end up losing the character and idiosyncratic ageing profile from vintages a few years ago. Let's hope not!

1. Rose Frizant
This is a sparkly rose made from Cabernet Sauvignon - and surprised me by being quite nice despite that! Lots of cherry and strawberry. Fine mousse and good acid. A little syrupy perhaps on the finish. Not made from methode Champenois. All things considered, this was pretty good. Not the type of wine I'm likely to buy though.

2. Reserve de Gassac Blanc 2010
90% Viognier, 10% Marsanne
I don't think I would have guessed viognier; however, it seems very believable after I've been told. Floral and with the fruit spectrum closer to stone fruit than anything else. Full bodied, low acid, medium length. Not bad, but not amazing.

3. Mas de Daumas Gassac Blacn 2010
A mix of Viognier, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. I didn't note the percentages.
A huge step up from wine #2. Concentrated, ripe fruit. This almost feels sweet it's so rich and full bodied. Lots of spice. No oak. Very, very good and will age well for many years.

4. Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge 2009
Very high, very fine tannin. Herbal overtones on the nose. Otherwise, typical young red wine smell. On the palate it is well balanced. Plenty of fruit, with some liquorice. Intense, long but still mostly primary character. Very good. Would expect it to improve. Although it tastes like it's been aimed more at the younger drinking style. This is not how I remember young Daumas Gassac from many years ago. Could this just be vintage variation, or has the winemaking style changed to produce a younger drinking wine..?

5. Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge 1995
This smells completely unrecognisable as the same wine. It's very hard to believe that the previous wine will age into this. This smells like a mature Bordeaux. Lots of tertiary flavours. Very acidic. Still plenty of tannin. Lots of flavour concentration. Perfect now. yum yum!

French Harvest Report

Monday 19 Sept 2010
A truly excellent tasting. The format was to compare the same wine from two very close vintages. The vintage variation was fascinating. All the wines made for excellent comparisons. So much so that I'll even overlook the fact that 25% of this tasting was Beaujolais!

1st pair. Chignin Jacquere Gilles Berlioz, Savoie
2009 vs 2010
This was an entirely new area and grape variety to me. Apparently, Savoie is close to Switzerland. The grape variety is Jacquere and is pretty much confined to the region. This was pretty good.
2010 was floral, zesty apple. High acid, crisp and refreshing. Good minerality. Slightly odd finish. The producer prefers this vintage. I preferred the 2009. The 2009 was a darker colour than the 2010. A more noticeable bready character (was this age, or just vintage variation?). Fuller body and more pleasant for drinking now.

2nd pair. Leon Boesch, "Luss" Riesling, Alsace
2008 vs 2009
This is a riesling which has undergone mallolactic fermentation... pretty unusual stuff! Both wines are pretty good. The 2008 was extremely acidic and floral. More of a food wine than the 2009. The 2009 was hotter and riper with more residual sugar. I preferred the more austere 2008.

3rd pair. Daniel Bouland, Chiroubles, Beaujolais
2009 vs 2010
I'm not a fan of Beaujolais so my opinions here will be somewhat biased. The 2010 was pretty rubbish. (ie Watery, fairly typical Beaujolais.) The 2009 definitely surprised to the upside. Deep colour, brambly and earthy.

4th pair. Domaine de Ferrand, Chateauneuf du Pape
2006 vs 2008
2008 was a rainy vintage which might have contributed to this wine having a restrained nose. It pales in comparison with the 2006 which was, quite frankly, fantastic. The 2006 was deep coloured, ripe, rich and full bodied. Made from 95% old-vine grenache this was powerful and elegant. Yum yum!